1995 XJ6 Immobilized by security system?

Edited on 2014-09-06 13:10:16
Jim,

I'm having the same problem with my 95 XJ6. I mean the exact problem. No noise from ignition, starter, or power to the fuel pump. Do you have a picture of the piece unplugged in the trunk boot? Or location? I have power to the seats, windows, a/c, and radio.. But I have no power to the dash (no warning lights) and shifter will not go into gear unless you use the bypass but I do have the red glow on the indicator in (P).

If anybody else have any suggestions please feel to let me know

Jim,

I recently had the same problem which started with a few things going wrong leading up to it. It finally locked up after I was checking my cooling fan relay as my fan started to run all the time when the car was off, draining the battery each night. While messing with the relay, my alarm system went off on its own and having no fob and the keys not disarming it, I pulled the battery cable off. Luckily, it died in the parking lot of my shop so we pushed it into the shop to look into the problem. I checked everything you did and then started diving into the wiring diagrams. I pulled the cover off the relay DBC10008 (Blue connector) and activated the solenoid for the starter manually by pushing the plunger. The starter turned so I knew I had something there. I checked for power from the ECU and found none even though I had power to the ECU. I happened (lucky I know) to have been given an extra ECU with the car when I bought it. I plugged it in and everything started to work. I had new sounds for the key in ignition, car left in gear, etc. that I had never experienced before. The fan even stopped running on after the car was shut off. Might be a simple thing for you to check and maybe solve your problem.

Michael

Update: I located the starter relay behind the left hand headlight. I pulled the relay and tested it and it operates correctly. I then put a test light across plug terminals 1 and 2 and turned the ignition to position III which should provide 12V to the relay - no light. Turning the ignition to start does not power up the relay. I then jumped terminals 3 and 5, the connection that the relay would make if it saw power, and the starter began cranking. I turned the ignition to position II and jumped 3 and 5 and the engine cranked and attempted to start. I appear to have other issues after I get the cranking problem taken care of. Bottom line: something is preventing power from reaching the starter relay. Progress, but the search continues.

Well I buttoned the car up properly using the key in the driver's door and then disarmed it with the key but still not crank. I did note that turning the key to position II all of the warning lights etc. are illuminated, but the "P" does not come on in the "J-Gate". I believe someone mentioned that it must glow red before the car can start. I jiggled the shifter and even moved it to Neutral but no luck. Does anyone know if there is an easy way to wire around the P/N switch or do I have to tackle removing the center console to get to the switch?

First thing to do is properly lock down and arm the security system, preferably using the key in the door cylinder. That will clear the security system to be sure it is not preventing starting. If the car has been 'violated' the starting and fueling systems are disabled. It has to be properly armed and then disarmed, so it knows you are a good guy. :-)

Cheers,

It's alive!!! Tracing dead circuits lead me to the trunk (boot). But everything seemed to be working back there. Then I pulled the trunk panel that covered the back seat and there lay a large connector. I plugged it into the appropriate receptacle and the trunk light came on. So did the interior lights. I put the key in the ignition and turned it and "Merry Christmas", the dash lights (warning lights) came on. I turned it to the start position and, although I could hear the fuel pump working, the starter did nothing. No solenoid clicking or anything. However, I consider this real progress. So now I continue with tracing the starter circuit.

Steve,
This evening I checked behind the headlights for the connectors as you suggested. I found a pair of white connectors; they were clean inside, no corrosion. In fact, I checked every connector in the right side fuse box neighborhood but they all are surprisingly clean. Found and checked several relays and some "dummy" relays but they all seemed to be clean and tight.
I suppose I could start by testing every fuse with an ohmmeter - well, at least the ones supposed to be related to the start circuit. I checked the fuse supposedly provided for the Body Processor Module and it was good.

Jim,
Don't fret too much about the ignition switch voltages. That is a grounding switch, and one of those other circuits is just a signal circuit. Normal voltage tests won't always tell you much, and could lead you astray.

This is weird one; just for grins, check behind the RH headlights, below the RH fusebox. There are two connectors down there, side by side. They may be oval shaped, or they may be rectangular. Whatever the case, they will be the same type, but different colors. Take them apart and inspect for any corrosion or burned wires. Let us know if you find anything there.

Good luck!

Yes negative ( i see I wrote positive), also check the one from the transmission to the Chassis and any other grtound wirs you can see.

Hi William,
Are you referring to a ground connection? I'm not sure and will investigate.
Today I removed the steering shaft cowl to gain access to the back of the ignition switch. There are five wires soldered to the connector. The black wire is a ground wire; the White/Orange wire, which I'm assuming is Position I, has battery voltage available. When I jump it to the black wire the radio illuminates, just like when I turn the key. The remaining wires show "0" voltage. I assume they represent Positions II and III, and one is from the Body Processor Module. Shouldn't the Position II and III wires also show battery voltage? If so, what is preventing that?

Does your car have a positive connection point on the right side firewall, we had a run of them where the connection loosened of to a point where the car would not start.

Thanks for your suggestion Steven, but the mystery continues. I removed the kick panel and checked the inertia switch but it had not been tripped. Thinking it could be faulty I unplugged it and inserted a jumper wire in the plug with the same result. With the jumper removed even the radio doesn't light up.
So far I have confirmed that I have 12V at the RH and LH engine bay fuse boxes and the ignition positive relay seems to function properly in the RH engine bay fuse box. Searching for the starter relay now to see if it is getting power.

Edited on 2014-04-28 19:22:11
Edited on 2014-04-28 19:20:26
Jim,
With the new information you have supplied, I think the inertia switch may have been tripped. The pic below circles its location at the passenger footwell. The side kickpanel is removed in the picture, but the switch is accessible by just reaching over the edge of the kick panel and pressing the top of the switch down. That is a rubber boot covering the plunger, but it its easily pressed right through the rubber.
Two things caused by a tripped inertia switch are blank instruments and inability to lock doors. In fact, the function of the switch is to kill ignition, [that is engine and ignition control power] and to force the doors to unlock in the case of an impact. Obviously, in that case we want to kill the engine and fuel pump, and unlock the doors for exiting the vehicle.

Try that and see if you get anywhere.

Good luck!

James have you looked in the shoppe--under archives? The elec. charts for 1995 XJ6 (X300) are avail there. Note two prices--member and non member.

Hauled the car home on a flatbed and rolled it into the garage and put the battery on the charger. The battery is up to full charge this morning, power seats, interior lights work ok. With ignition switch on the power windows work, the light in the radio comes on but no instrument lights, no response from gages. Turning the key to start causes a rapid beeping from the passenger side, under the dash or behind the kick panel. (Had to manually release the interlock solenoid to move the shifter out of park to neutral in order to get the car on and off the flatbed.) Steven, does locking the car with the key in the driver's door set the alarm. When I lock it that way the other three doors remain unlocked...not power door locks?
Anyone have a wiring diagram or know where I can get one for not too much money? Feels like I'll have to start tracing circuits to find out where the fault is.

He should be able to close up the car and use the key in the door cylinder to lock and arm the security system, then unlock and disarm the security system also with the key. At that point, the car should start.
One other thing to try, is to lower the driver window, close up all else, then lock and arm the system with the key. Then pull up on the drive lock button and open the door. That should trip the security system with a 15 second escalating warning sound. Within that 15 seconds, jump in the car and turn the ignition on and off three times and on the fourth time turn all the way to start. That should also reset the security system and allow starting.

If that doesn't get you running, there must be a fault in the security or starting systems.

Good luck!

The picture becomes clearer. The owner says that he has the key but not the keyless entry key fob. He drove the car for a while and then had a mechanic do some work on it. Apparently the mechanic engaged the security system and, without the key fob, the owner can't disengage it. Does that make sense? Still trying to determine if we should go after this car. Interior is clean, body is straight but could use paint. No visible rust or rust repair, car has been in Alabama/Tennessee it's whole life so no road salt.

No, removing the battery would not trigger any security systems to shut down. I've replaced the battery in my 96 XJ6 once and because I rarely drive the car, the battery will run down and I have to charge it to start the car and I've never experienced the type of problem you've described here.

I would test the battery to see if it's any good and if it is then check the cables. The battery is in the trunk, right?