Thank you for the info about rebuilding. I do have the manual and most importantly some one who has rebuilt these engines before. Only thing is that the last one he rebuilt was 20 or so years ago. Car parts are not the only things that get rusty! The mechanic is walking me through it and I always have many questions. Not being a mechanic most of it is new to me. Certainly will purchase the "tool"
Thanks again and we will use you notes as we continue.
Richard Sabonis
1965 E-Type Roadster
1E10018
Submitted by georgejones123… on Wed, 07/13/2005 - 20:11
You should be aware that there are some renowned engine builders, one in particular I know whose name I won't mention, who don't use the seal bedding tool and do it using the crankshaft to bed the seal. I did this on my 3.8 Mk 2 engine and have not had any problems. One just needs to apply a light coating of grease on the crank and be careful that there is no seal material between the joint faces before doing the final tightening down. BTW this is really the exact same procedure when using the tool. You might find the tool pretty expensive for a one off job if you can find one to buy and you might think about having your mechanic friend help you to do it with the crankshaft. Either way you will have some difficulty in the beginning forcing the seal into the grooves. First bolt the seal housing halves to the main bearing halves then try using a hammer handle to get the insertion started with crank out and then with crank in, start tightening the cap bolts at same time rapping the cap with a dead blow urethane hammer which helps considerably.
You do need to have the bearing shells in place while doing this or the crankshaft could take a position which is not concentric.
I hope this helps.
George Jones
Private Restorer.66\' 3.8 Mark 2, 67\' Ser. 1 FHC \"E\"""