I have a '65 E Type with Getrang 5 spd form SC
problem is bleeding clutch. Rebuilt master with sleeved unit from XKs Unlimited and new slave . CAn not get all the air from the line.
Have run a couple of quarts of fluid through into a glass until all air expelled. Wait a second and the clutch takes two or three strokes before it works. No leaks in the line.

Any ideas ?

Submitted by NE52-32043 on Thu, 06/23/2005 - 13:16

Tom,

You're right. When you do the adjustment on the slave, you must push the rod all the way into the slave. This sometimes requires waiting for the piston to settle in the cylinder, and can take a bit of effort to push it in to be sure. Glad your problem is solved.

Steve

Submitted by tkelso3@caroli… on Thu, 06/23/2005 - 06:51

Thanks for all the help. Problem found. Although I set the play on the slave cylinder rod, when I checked it again it was way out .
Apparently the slave cylinder was not seated when first set.

Perhaps an addition to the bleeding process is to push the slave cylinder in to make sure of its position

Submitted by NE52-32043 on Mon, 06/20/2005 - 10:02

Tom,

Patrick's suggestion of speed bleeders is a good one. But you have to be careful with them as well, as far as drawing air in through the threads. They usually come with a coating on the threads to assure a good seal, but if you open them a little too far, you can still pull air through the threads.

What you describe sounds a bit unusual. Have you carefully checked all of the fittings and lines to be sure that you don't have a leak somewhere? Also, did you change the flex hose that runs down along the side of the engine to the slave? When those get old, the inside wall of the hose can separate, acting like a flap in the line. I had a similar problem with my '70 FHC when I got it, even after changing the master and slave. Changing that hose fixed the problem. I'm sure you don't want to hear this, but it is possible for either the master or slave to be defective, even though you just got them.

You must also be sure that the rod in the slave is properly adjusted or the clutch just won't work right.

Steve Weinstein, JTC-NJ
'70 XKE FHC, 69 XKE OTS

Submitted by mcload@ev1.net on Sun, 06/19/2005 - 20:53

You can probably find a Jaguar specialty shop or JCNA club nearby; you just need to do some internet digging. You need to find someone who owns or who is very familiar with Series 3 E-Types...they are a breed apart from Series 1's and 2's at least from an engine point of view. You need to have this person look at the car stem from stern, including removing the spare tire. Does the engine leak oil or any fluid? Does it over-heat at idle? Is there any signs of body repairs? Are the suspension pieces and engine frame tubes straight? Lots of stuff to look for.

You need to tell this person whether it's being sold as a concours champ car or a daily driver, and at what price. Judging from what the person tells you, you can decide whether it's worth the trip. But ultimately, YOU are going to have to inspect it, drive it, and decide if its worth the bucks. Don't ever buy a car sight unseen. My 2 cents.

There are several books with chapters on buying an E-Type, and come to think of it, I think there is an article in the technical library on this site.

Patrick McLoad
1966 E-Type, Right-hand Drive Roadster
#1E1445

Submitted by lenny_gandolfo… on Sun, 06/19/2005 - 11:58

I DON'T HAVE MY XKE ROADSTER JUST YET, BUT I THINK I MAY HAVE FOUND ONE, AND NOW I HOPE MY CLUB MEMBERS WILL HELP ME.

THIS IS A 1971 ROADSTER, IT LOOK GREAT IN PICTURES (DON'T THEY ALL), NOW BEFORE I MAKE A TRIP TO CLEVELAND, OHIO FROM BEAUTIFUL, WARM AND SUNNY FORT LAUDERDALE, FLORIDA, I WANT A GOOD, QUALIFIED, HONEST JAGUAR MECHANIC.

WHO KNOWS ONE, AND WHAT DO I TELL HIM TO LOOK FOR, OR, AS A MECHANIC, DOES HE ALREADY KNOW? I AM TRUELY A SUB-NOVICE, SO I NEED SOMEONE TO HOLD MY HAND THRU-OUT THIS WHOLE PROCESS. WOULD SOMEONE TAKE MY HAND AND LEAD ME,
AT LEAST TILL I HAVE SOME IDEA OF WHAT I AM DOING OR SAYING??

THANKS A WHOLE LOT, AND HAPPY FATHERS DAY TO ALL THOSE WHO FALL UNDER THAT COLUMN.

LENNY GANDOLFO, (TRYIN' TO LEARN AS MUCH AS POSSIBLE)
THANK YOU,

Submitted by mktr@charter.net on Sat, 06/18/2005 - 21:59

tom, you could be drawing air back into the system through the bleeder screw threads if you are using a tube going into a jar. we always use two people when bleeding. make sure the bleeder screw is closed before the pedal is let up. there is only a couplr plases air can get in. if you are sure its all out and it works ok for a litte bit and then are gets back in it could be from the mc. make sure the mc is returning all the way and make sure the slave cyl rod is adjusted properly. hpr this helps. 1962 fhc 1970 fhc