E Type Series III Fuel Pump

true, the more complicated a system is the more chances for failure...

but if one of these pre pump filter fails to filter something fine, chances it won't clog the pump and then will be cuaght by the primary filter.

I actually had an odd failure 10 days ago... the filter got loose and I lost pressure driving out of the garage. it was real obvious as the pump sounded different and the pressure fell flat. apparently when I assembled it, I screwed it onthe wrong side and unscrewed the other side to the limit. no idea why it took 6 months/ 13k to fall apart!

so no system is foolproof but a pre filter is useful. beats pulling the pump out on the side of thre road!

Pascal Gademer
South Florida Jaguar Club
72 E-type 2+2
00 XKR Coupe
99 XJR

I have been convinced not to use the new electronic pump. Thank You. I have found that the original pump was replaced before I purchased the car with a universal pump that is rated 5.5 -9.0 psi. It has been working fine for over three years until last week when it stopped. What's wrong with replacing it with the same thing? I think you mentioned 2 or 3 psi was needed. This pump is wired to a small round blue piece that could be a regulator. What's your best guess! Thanks. Dick Bartick - Indianapolis

Pascal:
The glass filters have been banned in the Cleave fleet after the second one (in an MGB) was found guity of failing to filter fine particulates and caused a shut down on I-5. The fine particulates were found in the carburetor reservoir - not nice - enough to foul the inflow jet. The first shattered (in the Bugeye) one day after oldest son tightened it too much - I should have learned from that experience but didn't - but oldest son did.

I would encourage everyone to remove the sump on their E-Types every 5 years. You'd be surprised how much silt builds up in there - enough to make you wonder why all cars don't have that sump feature. When removed, the filter, which is available after being NLA for so long, is a snap to replace.

Stew Cleave
JOCO Chief Judge
\'69 E-Type 2+2
and other LBC\'s

Of course I followed your advice and passed on that white car. Purchased a 74 OTS in great condition. Black with cinnamon interior. Mostly all original and has placed first in the local concours driven class.

Dick Bartick

doesn't hurt to put an inline filter before the pump, I have one of the glass tube style. cheap insurance...

in most cases, the sump hasn't been pulled in years and most owners don't know for sure the mesh is still in there...

Pascal Gademer
South Florida Jaguar Club
72 E-type 2+2
00 XKR Coupe
99 XJR

Patrick there is a filter (or there should be) in the sump pickup. They work very well and anything that gets by the filter is too small to hurt the pump (or carbs for that matter).

George Camp

I did --- greetings--- hope that was not the car you bought! Pointless pumps are useless. I only put points pumps in customers or my own-- main reason is that point pumps seldom fail. If they sit to long they may need a tap but clean up quick. You can beat hell out of a solid state pump to no avail. Don't go for the modern pump.

George Camp

Richard: I've also switched to a "pointless" pump, but have had problems as well, but mine is for a Series 1. I'm on my 3rd, and so far, so good. I don't think I've had electrical problems like Pascal.

I've come to recognize the symptoms of a stuck diaphram...the pump fails to pick up any fuel and I see alot of bubbles in the glass filter bowl. When this happenes, I take the pump portion apart, rinse it out and re-assemble, and it's usually fine. I've never been able to find any particulate matter to blame it on, but it can be very small. I need to put a small in-line filter between the tank pick-up and the pump.

But that still doesn't help when you're out on the road, so having a back-up is always a good idea. You should also carry a length of rubber gas line hose, a cutter, screwdriver, and a few small hose clamps in case a leak develops in the hoses.

In my opinion, both the electronic and traditional style SU pumps are poorly made these days, so you are just as likely to have problems with either style.

Patrick McLoad
1966 E-Type, Right-hand Drive Roadster

George,

Do you share the same opinion on the pointless fuel pump? It would certainly seem to be more reliable. By the way, I think you went to survey a car for me in Charlotte three years ago. Yes or no?

Dick Bartick

Pascal-just a point that either side of the pump when working seperate or together gives the same pressure--it is volumn you are lacking.

George Camp

Richard

I tried the new electronic SU and wasn't convinced... the first one, new from the UK failed after a few months. luckily I had kept the old one as a spare and was able to change it on the side of I95... one of the board had a massive short ... see picture.

I had that pump rebuilt including with new electornic boards and it failed again a few months later.

I'm currently running a modern Holley Blue, it's a bit loud but it should be more reliable. I use a simple Mr Gasket regulator from JEG as the regulator that comes with the pump can't go down to 2 or 3 psi needed.

I would try to repair the one you have and maybe keep a spare holley as a back up, they're about $ 100 from Jegs

if that happens again, try disconnecting one side. the pump should run on the other side alone, not enough pressure to sustain hard acceleration but enough to cruise home at a reasonable speed. I also relocated mine to a safer more accessible spot after I realized that pump was at teh same level as most SUV's bumber! see link below

Pascal Gademer
South Florida Jaguar Club
72 E-type 2+2
00 XKR Coupe
99 XJR