Ignition Light control on Series 1 1/2 is shorted

The feed rom the Alternator to the warning light unit should be 6 volts only, if more than that the alternator is faulty and why you are having such a diffgicult time. Have it rebuilt.

I disconnected the "can" way back when I went to the one wire alternator. All current is running through the little can, didn't make me feel comfortable for a dummy light, I still have the gauge. Remember the can is receiving juice from the alt and its diodes, the lucas alt. stinks as well......
John, unplug the 3w and tape back the wires then remove the alternator and put the one wire, use a heavy gauge cable from back of alt to the positive bulk head bolt post, take ALL those damn wires from behind the lucas alt and tape back as well. You have now deleted MANY wires in you electrical system.
Look up my old posts on a STANDARD brand key switch. They are 12 dollars and isolate the current in the switch. The switch will be cool instead of getting hot . Also they will hold up to the new alt and the old regulator
Its simple, but just do it.....if you want to drive your car.
To sum up the 3w is a waste and antiquated at best.
Good luck
GTJOEY1314

Edited on 2014-09-08 20:46:38
I disconnected the "can" way back when I went to the one wire alternator. All current is running through the little can, didn't make me feel comfortable for a dummy light, I still have the gauge. Remember the can is receiving juice from the alt and its diodes, the lucas alt. stinks as well......
John, unplug the 3w and tape back the wires then remove the alternator and put the one wire, use a heavy gauge cable from back of alt to the positive bulk head bolt post, take ALL those damn wires from behind the lucas alt and tape back as well. You have now deleted MANY wires in you electrical system.
Look up my old posts on a STANDARD brand key switch. They are 12 dollars and isolate the current in the switch. The switch will be cool instead of getting hot . Also they will hold up to the new alt and the old regulator
Its simple, but just do it.....if you want to drive your car.
To sum up the 3w is a waste and antiquated at best.
Im sorry, you were going to jcna judge, good luck, get your trophy then rip all the junk out. Yes getting hot was normal. Fires were also very normal on etypes, pick your option, a pewter dish or a reliable safer car.......
Good luck
GTJOEY1314

The car does not have a locking ignition; just a regular keyed ignition.

I'm still having problems with the Ignition Warning Light Control (3AW); I installed a new unit and it also became very hot after connecting the battery just like the original. So I removed the control and drove the car ok without the ignition light. But I can't figure out why the unit gets hot. Is this supposed to happen? I would prefer to have a working ignition warning light; the right one, since my car is being prepped for JCNA concours. Any technical advice out there?
John

I'm still having problems with the Ignition Warning Light Control (3AW); I installed a new unit and it also became very hot after connecting the battery just like the original. So I removed the control and drove the car ok without the ignition light. But I can't figure out why the unit gets hot. Is this supposed to happen? I would prefer to have a working ignition warning light; the right one, since my car is being prepped for JCNA concours. Any technical advice out there?
John

Your car is on the edge, do you have a locking steering column or the last of the key on the dash, unless its a 2+2. if you have the horrible series 2 ingnition set up you can bypass the unit .........

1 wire alternator Solid state 3AW relay? What's the "Standard ignition key"? As opposed to what?

Disconnect and you lose the light on the speedo, Who cares as you have a volt gage.
Its just a light bulb circuit. Once you go to one wire gm alternator, you lose anther 11 WIRES on a series 2.
Good luck
GTJOEY1314

Russ,
By "John, It won't hurt a thing." do you mean I can drive the car without the warning light unit, with no damage to the battery or alternator? I can just let the wires unconnected?
Thanks for your advice!
John

If you put anything back, put the solid state. Rich is right. Its another BAD device as ALL the current runs though the little can. If you do the TRIPLE GTJOEY SPECIAL
1, 1 WIRE ALTERNATOR GM
2.. SOLID STATE CAN
3. STANDARND IGNITION KEY
Your whole electrical and starting loop will be BULLET proof for years to come.
Good luck.
GTJOEY1314

John, It won't hurt a thing. From what you said it certainly sounds like it shorted out I would recommend the solid state unit that Cool Cat (914-907-9486) sells. There P/N is SS3AW. Not original or Concours, but works great and very reliable.

Dick Russ
70 OTS

John, It won't hurt a thing. From what you said it certainly sounds like it shorted out I would recommend the solid state unit that Cool Cat (914-907-9486) sells. There P/N is SS3AW. Not original or Concours, but works great and very reliable.

Dick Russ
70 OTS