New V12 Owner!

Sounds high to me too. Also, have you looked into a high torque starter? I put one on my V12 E-type and it made a huge difference in starting.

I also agree about the ground issue. I could also be the starter relay or just a wire that came loose from the relay or the starter itself. And these starters are not so exotic that they can't be rebuilt by a local shop, if that's what it really needs. Jerry's suggestion of calling around is a good one.

I'd suggest you get in touch with Sherman Taffel of the Nation's Capital Region Jag Club (staffelcomcast.net). He or someone in their club can probably hook you up with a good, reliable and reasonably priced mechanic in your area who can properly assess the car and help you keep it running for less than an arm and a leg.

It's an unfortunate fact of life that many mechanics see dollar signs when a Jaguar crosses their property line. ("Well, if he can afford to drive a Jaguar, he can afford to pay whatever I want to charge him.") Hopefully, you are getting good advise and not being taken.

Steve Weinstein, JTC-NJ
'72 E-type 2+2
'70 XKE FHC

That sounds high to me on the labor end for certain. The books says to remove some elements of the steering column for starter removal, but this is not necessay on all XJS models. A good mehacnic will know which.

Also, XJS starters are known for malfunctioning or quitting altogether just because of a bad ground. Be sure you have ruled that out before replacing the starter. Did it turn slow before quitting? Good sign of a bad ground.

If it were me, I would call around to electrical rebuild shops and ask them if they could rebuild any starter. If someone can, you have just saved yourself some money.

Also worth noting: the top starter bolt is 7/16 12 POINT, and you can't see it to back it out, so a 6 point socket won't work & you won't know why.

Good luck.

1984 XJS coupe
1992 XJS convertible

jHe said it would be $300 for a re-built starter and $300 for the labor, I am in Maryland.

thanks

Jesse

Are you anywhere near Chicago? My Jag mechanic is quite reasonable and very talented. (E. Chicago, IN)

Why can't you get the starter rebuilt?

1984 XJS coupe
1992 XJS convertible

Thanks for the advice and I downloaded the book, the starter just went (starter motor) and it will be like $600 to replace it TOTAL. I hope the repairs on this car don't go over $2000, thats all i can afford now and I really don't want to give her up. I will hear from my mecanic tomorrow (fingers crossed!).

thanks

Jesse

Jesse,

The best summary of what to do is in The Book. Go to Jag-lovers.org and download it NOW! BTW, the auxiliary fan on this car is wired to a thermal switch. If the engine is hot, the fan will continue to run after the engine has been shut off. Many XJS owners will pop the bonnet after a long run to aid in cool down. (Just release the latch, no need to lift it). As the bonnet does not have louvers, it is hard for the heat to escape.

The head on these cars is made of aluminum. The valve seats are steel and are pressed into the head. Different metals, different expansion and contraction. When the engine overheats, the valve seats can come loose and literally drop out of their holes. Read The Book about this. There is a procedure to follow to cool the engine down if it does overheat to prevent dropping a valve seat. If you had a bad one, you'd know it by now.

In fact, one thing I'd strongly suggest if it hasn't been done in the past year is to dump the coolant and replace the thermostats. When you do it, check the hoses carefully and replace them if they are the slightest bit questionable. And try to check the radiator core as well. Having the core rodded out or having the radiator recored is cheap compared to other damage from overheating. Also, remove the mechanical fan and replace it with an 18" Permacool electric fan (can be bought from Summit Racing -- NAYYY, it's where I got mine). Higher volume of air. Wire it to the same relay as the auxiliary fan, so they run together. And be sure they both run whenever the AC/heater is on. When you refill the radiator, use 50/50 mixture of good quality anti-freeze and distilled or deionized water, with one bottle of Red Line Water Wetter added (don't ask why, just do it). You might also want to install the Tebfa filters per The Book. Whatever you do, DO NOT add Barr's Leaks to your radiator. Read The Book, you'll understand why.

Not meant to scare you. But these are high performance engines that require care. Not a lot, but as I said, more than most people are used to with modern "gas and drive" cars. Since this car is over 10 years old and you don't know for sure what maintenance has been done, the safe thing to do is assume it has not been properly maintained and do as much as you can to be sure it is in tip top shape. You'll get the most enjoyment out of it that way with the least amount of problems.

BTW, chances are the spark plugs have never been changed either. Or the wires. Or the distributor cap and rotor. (Look at the top of the engine, you'll understand why). Consider doing it. But remember, with the Marelli system, the spark plug gap MUST be .025" (don't go .030 or .035 trying to get a hotter spark... you'll burn up the engine). And use good quality plugs. You don't want to do this job again very soon. Again, read The Book!!!!

Steve Weinstein, JTC-NJ
'72 E-type 2+2
'70 XKE FHC
Former '89 XJS Owner

Well, after the engine is shut off I haer a noise (a hum) like coolant or a fan of some king, but no clicking (knock on wood!).

thanks and I hope I dont have a time bomb on my hands, I want to drve it a little before it breaks down again! I have found that after I drive a V12 it is hard to drive my V6 Thunderbird, I used to complain about not haveing a v8, now a V12!

thanks

Jesse

The "click of death" in a V-12 Jag engine is the click of a dropped valve seat, usually from overheating. (Happens AFTER the engine is shut off.)

As I recall, the metals in the valve mechanism (valve, shim, seat) are different & so expand & contract at different rates. This is what causes the valve seat to drop when overheated. Then you need a valve job; either that or you have a parts car.

A small amount of valve train noise at best is o.k.. If a persistent clicking is heard, then do a compression test & hope for the best. Compression should be 200 or so for post HE V-12's. The important thing is that the numbers be consistent from cylinder to cylinder.

Dr. Jerry K.

1984 XJS coupe
1992 XJS convertible

I am scared to ask, but what is the "click of death?"

thanks for all of the help and could someone summerize the maintanance that I should do to the jag to keep it up and running?

thanks

Jesse

Jesse,

Sounds like you got a good deal. But you'll only know that after you owned the car for a while. Having owned an '89 XJS Coupe for several years, I can tell you that you will learn a lot about auto maintenance.

To answer your question, virtually all of the XJS's imported to the US were automatics. It is the factory manual transmissions that are very rare in the US. The automatic in your car is a GM transmission, so it can be serviced by any competent American transmission shop.

Be careful. The biggest threat to your V-12 is overheating. It is imperative that you understand why these cars overheat and what can potentially happen if it does. Overheating can lead to a dropped valve seat which can lead to major engine damage. Also, the post-'89 cars have the Marelli ignition system and are somewhat prone to engine fires.

The first thing you should do is go to www.jag-lovers.org and follow the links to the XJS pages and download "The Book" by Kirby Palm. It is a compilation of the wisdom of XJS owners from all over the world. Kirbert did an amazing job of putting this together. It is a free download over the internet. I'd suggest you print it out (it's over 600 pages), put it in a loose-leaf binder, and consult it regularly. For a "newbie" there is a whole section on buying and maintaining these cars. The information there is invaluable, and it could end up saving you mega-bucks on repairs, even if you don't do the work yourself.

These are fabulous cars and a joy to drive. But they do require a bit of maintenance. This ain't your Toyota Camry or Honda Accord that you just put gas in and drive forever. Read "The Book" and become familiar with the typical maintenance needed and problems that can occur. With these cars, the more you know, the better off you are.

Best of luck and enjoy!

Steve Weinstein, JTC-NJ
'72 E-type 2+2
'70 XKE FHC
Former '89 XJS Coupe owner

Don't even think twice. Take it to any local muffler shop chain. They will do both the shocks, springs and exhaust for a very reasonable price. Don't forget to check the exhaust brackets at the trans & the two rear hanging brackets. Also check for leaks in the downpipes, a consistent weak point.

Avoid a mistake: stay away from Monroe shocks! Don't be misled by the lifetime warranty or the low price. They are consistently rated poor by XJS owners. The front end being VERY heavy, go with adjustable KONI shocks.

PS: You won't really know how good a deal you got until you do a compression check. 11 cylinders run better than 8 on a V-8. (Valve jobs are 41 hours.) Listen for the "click of death." Good luck.

Dr. Jerry K.

1984 XJS coupe
1992 XJS convertible

Hello Jesse Sandler
If you think you did not get a GREAT deal; I will give you $1100.00 so you will not suffer any permanent psychological injury "HUGE GRIN"....

I just got a 1989 XJ6 $750.00 with faded paint four rust holes and a laundry list of items needing attention.
Only a mechanic could afford or like this car at the moment.
Have a great day.
whunter
ASE Master Mechanic
Bloomfield Eurotech
45671 Woodward Avenue
Pontiac, MI 48341
Work Phone 248-334-6400 Fax 248-334-2363
asemastermechanicjuno.com

Hello Jesse Sandler
If you think you didn't get a GREAT deal; I'll give you $1100.00 so you will not suffer any permanent psychological injury "HUGE GRIN"....

I just got a 1989 XJ6 $750.00 with faded paint four rust holes and a laundry list of items needing attention.
Only a mechanic could afford or even like this car at the moment.
Have a great day.
whunter
ASE Master Mechanic
Bloomfield Eurotech
45671 Woodward Avenue
Pontiac, MI 48341
Work Phone 248-334-6400 Fax 248-334-2363
asemastermechanicjuno.com