Newcomer looking for restoration advice

based on your description, the paint needs to be done so keeping it unrestored is no longer an option.

you probably don't need to do a real, complete restoration though. addressing mechanical issue needs to be done as well as some of the cosmetics inside.

If the body is good, no rust, a simple repaint is really what you need. doesn't have to be done by a high cost restorer, a good body shop can do it. I had my 72 painted by the Jaguar Dealer body shop a few years ago, I told them I wanted the same quality I had on the XKR. pulling the glass, rubber, chrome, cost was under $5000 a steve said, when you do the paint, then change all the rubber and re chrome what needs to be.

this will give you the best bang for the buck: a car that you will enjoy driving, which will be worth more than it is now but without gonig overboard. the last thing you want to do is sink $50k or more in a restoration becasue, you will be afraid to drive it and you will usually not recoup the cost.

now, in some cases, if the pain can be buffed and brought back to a nicelty patined look, it's better to leave it alone. but if it as cracks, etc... it's probably too far gone.

Pascal Gademer
South Florida Jaguar Club
72 E-type 2+2
00 XKR Coupe
99 XJR

Edited on 2005-01-20 14:07:59

Kendall,

Sounds like a pretty nice car. My opinion on what to do:

First, the fuel pump is easy. You can get a replacement SU pump, brand new, no core exchange, for under $100. Do it. And if you're into rebuilding things, get the rebuild kit, redo the old one yourself, and keep it as a spare.

As far as the interior goes, if most of the interior is okay, you can get new seat covers and redo the seats. The center console lid can also be redone without much cost. You can also buy new carpets and just replace the carpets without redoing the whole interior.

As for the seals and paint, that's a different story. The time to do the windsheild and rear hatch seals, and other related seals, is when you repaint. The best paint job results will come if you have the glass removed anyway, so have it all done at once. All of the seals, etc., are readily available from "the usual suspects" as are various trim and chrome bits that might be needed.

In terms of doing it, changing the pump and doing the interior work can be done by just about anyone. You might want to give the seats to an auto upholstry shop, just to get a good fit and new foam installed. The paint job should be done by a pro that knows old car painting, and who uses only high quality paint and related supplies. Generally, a body shop that does old cars can paint and do the glass and seals, all at the same time.

My $.02.

Regards,
Steve W.

Steve and Daniel,

Thanks for the information. I've owned the car for 18 years and drive it regularly (not as often as I'd like or it needs probably). It has about 77,000 miles on it. I have the original documentation that came with the car: driver's handbook, leatherette pouch, warranty booklet, etc., and an original shop manual in the factory green vinyl binder (with 4.2 supplement). Also have the original title receipt and full service history.

I had the front suspension bushings and ball joint redone because the steering had become very sloppy and was to the point of unsafe. The radiator was replaced due to overheating and coolant loss. The only other major work that has been done was a clutch replacement and master cylinder replacement. The engine and gearbox are strong and run well.

Currently, the paint shows significant age, some discoloration, cracking and in one spot it has flaked off. The interior also shows sign of wear particularly on the driver's seat and center console armrest (which has cracked through to the foam). The carpets show wear also but most of the rest of the interior is OK except for a few moth holes here and there. The fuel pump is also not functioning right now (quit the last time I tried to drive it, three weeks ago).

The seals around the windshield and rear window I think are probably shot. The chrome trim has come loose and off and after getting caught in the rain I found out the windshield seals leak profusely. The other rubber bits also look to be worn out or just dried and cracked beyond repair.

If you have any ideas on the proper order of repairing such things and whether or not a novice should attempt them or pay someone to do them, I'd love to hear them.

Thanks again for your help and patience.

Kendall
1966 E-type FHC (Sherwood Green/Suede Green)

Hello Kendall

I'm not shure or I don't understand but is there any need for a resroration? I think, an unrestored oldtimer ist better and has more value than a restored one (my mind).

If it was a long time not driven I think you have to be very carefully to get him alive. I think you have to change all fluids and exchange rubber hoses. And and and..............

But I would let'em be UNRESTORED.

----------------------
see you on the road again

Daniel

Kendall,

You have framed the great conundrom -- to restore or not to restore, that is the question. Basically, restoration, if done properly, will enhance the value of a car, not lessen it. Unless an old car like this is in absolutely pristine, original condition, the "aging" process decreases its value. A good quality, careful restoration will make it more valuable and easier to sell in the secondary market.

Now, the question becomes, how far do you go with the restoration? A high driver is a good target, if you are not looking to spend a fortune. A 100 point concours restoration will likely cost $1000 per point, i.e., to get a 100 point car, plan on spending $100,000. For a good driver, it all depends on what is really needed. Paint? Body work? Interior? Mechanicals? Be careful how you do things. Suspension parts and most metal parts under the bonnet are plated, not painted. If you start painting things that should be plated, you will decrease the value of the car. In most instances on a "driver", the best thing to do under the bonnet is simply clean things up as best you can. A good quality paint job, in the car's original factory color, will go a long way to making the car look good. Also, fixing up or replacing the interior will do that as well.

In the end, if you are looking to make the car enjoyable for you to drive, do what you need to to make it a good driver. If you are thinking you are going to make lots of money on the car, probably not. Do what you want to make the car usable and enjoyable. You may or may not recoupe the cost of doing it when you go to sell it. But in the meantime, you've had the fun of doing it, and you've had a great car to drive and enjoy.

I'm currently restoring my '69 OTS to high driver status. It won't be a show car, but that's not what I want. I want to drive it and enjoy it. With a little luck, it will be worth about what I will have put into it when I'm done. Not looking to make money, I'm looking to enjoy the car.

Steve Weinstein, JTC-NJ
'70 XKE FHC
'69 XKE OTS

p.s. Be careful where you take it to get the work done. Some very good shops do nice work, but will cost you a small fortune. Other shops that don't specialize in Jaguars, E-types in particular, will do the work for less, but won't do it right. It's important to find a good quality shop that knows E-types and will get the work done reasonably promptly for a reasonable price.