Edited on 2012-04-18 14:31:45

Edited on 2012-04-18 14:30:52

Hello All,

Please indulge me in giving some detailed background, as I think that there are three incidents that may be linked.

About a year ago, I was cruising down the highway about 65 MPH with an outdoor temperature around 70 degrees F, when out of nowhere the engine stopped dead and I got the red warning lamp and "Engine Stalled" message. I will confess that at this point I had unintentionally filled the car up during my trip with regular unleaded, so when the car decided it would start again about three hours later I suspected I'd been the victim of vapor lock.

Well, fast forward a year to this past Saturday when I was cruising down a back road in WV around 60 MPH when, *wham*, no response from the accelerator and the dreaded red warning lamp and "Engine Stalled" message. My first suspicion was, again, possible vapor lock because the car would at least try to start, run for less than 10 seconds and stop. However, after allowing a great deal more time for the engine to cool down and trying to start, she'd crank like a champ but show no sign whatsoever of firing up.

The initial diagnosis by me, and later by the mechanic where I had the car towed (and who specializes in British cars), was a dead fuel pump. The car has 140K on it and the electrical supply to the pump appeared to be just fine based on the checks. So, a new pump was ordered and installed (after being stranded for the weekend and yesterday). I checked every fuse and switched out relays on Saturday (and, again, today) and this makes no difference whatsoever.

Last night's 3+ hour drive home was completely uneventful and covered mountainous terrain between WV and VA. This morning, she started right up, I drove about 1.5 blocks, then - you guessed it - the engine just cut out entirely with the same warnings as above.

I've already invested a significant quantity of cash and mental energy on this and am quite frazzled and perplexed at the moment. Does this set of symptoms strike anyone as one of those, "Yeah, I've seen *this* before, and I think I know the solution!!," things or am I now doomed to a endless diagnostic nightmare that will lead to no easily definitive solution?

I will add that the OBD system is not throwing a single code related to any of this, which is even more frustrating!!

Any guidance will be most appreciated.

Submitted by vogelbp@gmail.com on Sat, 04/28/2012 - 18:51

Well, the mystery continues, gets deeper, and gets more depressing for me.

The just replaced fuel pump failed within one day. It is unclear to me if it was a bad pump or if my local mechanic is correct in his placing the blame on a failing resistor somehow related to the pump. Another one was put in.

At the same time it appeared that the crank position sensor (I think I have that right) had gone wonky, so it was replaced. The car must have started for my mechanic and I know he road tested it briefly. When I went to pick up the car earlier today, it would crank like a champ and still didn't start.

If any of the above triggers a bolt of recognition for anyone, please share what it is you've recognized.

Submitted by vogelbp@gmail.com on Sat, 04/21/2012 - 13:20

Thanks for your reply, but I don't think our problems are the same because the "after symptoms" are very distinctly different.

On these last two failures, which are recent enough for me to remember in great detail, the car simply will not start after it cuts out, even though it cranks like a champ.

Right now the suspected issue is a sensor, I believe the cam position sensor (but I'm not certain since I'm not doing the repair myself). My mechanic believes that one of the critical sensors is just randomly shutting down and that the engine ECU is instantly cutting off the engine as a result.

I am just hoping that this doesn't end up as a litany of, "thought it was that sensor, but no, thought it was this other sensor, but no. . ." I know and trust the mechanic I have chasing down this problem, and his ability to diagnose electrical issues is very good, but I also know how difficult it can be to get a correct diagnosis in a modern car when the issue is not causing any OBD codes at all to be generated.

Submitted by joshbartlett@r… on Sat, 04/21/2012 - 10:16

Edited on 2012-04-21 10:17:27

This may be similar to the same problem I encountered with my 1997 XK-8..... It would quit while running - even at high speeds (65 -70 mph). It happened several times on Interstate highways, a very dangerous situation - no power assist on the steering or brakes.

The only response was to shut the key off - dangerously locking the steering, and quickly restarting the engine. It would restart immediately.

After several trips to the Dealer, who told me: 1. The throttle Body needed recalibrating; (problem still occurred) ; 2. Throttle body needed replacing $1400 plus labor.

I contacted Jag. North America - they denied any knowledge of any problem of the sort. I returned to the dealer and he said if he could get it to do it with him driving, he could get Jag to replace the Throttle Body if I paid for the labor. I left the car with him, and the problem happened (?).

I paid for the labor, (under $200.00) and asked Jag. North America to reimburse me for that and the several 140 mile round trips to solve what I believe should have been a recall. They refused and offered a $100.00 coupon for Jag service. I refused.