cam timing

Craig, got the timing set up and it actually was very easy, TDC was already there, the cam and chain tensioner tools made the job go very quickly.
All is closed up ready for install.
Thanks again

I found that the best way to set TDC of the crank is with a piston stop. It is more accurate than the dial indicator on the top of the piston and of the head is already on it can still be used. I have checked many factory engines and found the TDC indication notoriously inaccurate from the factory. With the head on remove the cams and you can turn the crank without fear of damage. Use a stop that screws into a spark plug hole. I made one from an old plug. I use a degree wheel attached to the crank shaft for the best accuracy but a fabric measuring tape is also OK. Slowly turn the crank in one direction until it is stopped by the piston stop. Mark where the pointer is on the pulley. Turn the engine back the other direction until it is stopped. Mark where the pointer is now on the pulley. Turn the engine back and forth between the stops a couple of times to ensure that the marks are right. TDC is in the exact middle between the two marks. Use the degree wheel or just measure around the perimeter with a cloth tape and mark the middle. Make the final mark permanent and use it as the timing mark when setting the ignition.

Craig

I found that the best way to set TDC of the crank is with a piston stop. It is more accurate than the dial indicator on the top of the piston and of the head is already on it can still be used. I have checked many factory engines and found the TDC indication notoriously inaccurate from the factory. With the head on remove the cams and you can turn the crank without fear of damage. Use a stop that screws into a spark plug hole. I made one from an old plug. I use a degree wheel attached to the crank shaft for the best accuracy but a fabric measuring tape is also OK. Slowly turn the crank in one direction until it is stopped by the piston stop. Mark where the pointer is on the pulley. Turn the engine back the other direction until it is stopped. Mark where the pointer is now on the pulley. Turn the engine back and forth between the stops a couple of times to ensure that the marks are right. TDC is in the exact middle between the two marks. Use the degree wheel or just measure around the perimeter with a cloth tape and mark the middle. Make the final mark permanent and use it as the timing mark when setting the ignition.

Craig

Craig very logical idea. I really appreciate this! I spoke to the rebuilder and he assured me that he left the engine at top dead centre. But will check before doing anything. if I am unsure at all I will take the cams off to ensure I dont damage anything.
Thanks again for all the advice.

I found that the best way to set TDC of the crank is with a piston stop. It is more accurate than the dial indicator on the top of the piston and of the head is already on it can still be used. I have checked many factory engines and found the TDC indication notoriously inaccurate from the factory. With the head on remove the cams and you can turn the crank without fear of damage. Use a stop that screws into a spark plug hole. I made one from an old plug. I use a degree wheel attached to the crank shaft for the best accuracy but a fabric measuring tape is also OK. Slowly turn the crank in one direction until it is stopped by the piston stop. Mark where the pointer is on the pulley. Turn the engine back the other direction until it is stopped. Mark where the pointer is now on the pulley. Turn the engine back and forth between the stops a couple of times to ensure that the marks are right. TDC is in the exact middle between the two marks. Use the degree wheel or just measure around the perimeter with a cloth tape and mark the middle. Make the final mark permanent and use it as the timing mark when setting the ignition.

Craig

Marco check like this, look and find the timing pointer on the front of the crankshaft, it should be pointing at the TDC mark, if so, the camshaft tools should fit into the slots at the front of each camshaft on top. also the front lobes should be facing away from the centre of the engine. Now if the front lobes are facing in to the centre then it means that you are on TDC no 6 ( the rear cylinder) You can now safely rotate the engine 360 deg to bring it to TDC on the front cyl

I'll try to ask only when absolutely necessary.

I want to do things right because it will be very expensive if wrong.

Your answers confirm what I thought. Won't touch the crankshaft until absolutely positive that the cam shafts are at least very close to the setting they should be with the cam tool.

I got the engine with a package of parts, etc from a older gentleman who decided he didnt want to work on his etype any longer, so we was divesting parts. That all I know about the engine.

Marco

Something I don't understand. Why is it that I don't receive all the e-mails in this forum? For example, I did not receive the e-mail where Brian Blackwell explained the timing procedure.
Shouldn't I be receiving all posts?

Bill Berman.
68 FHC.

You hope "one last question" Marco, why wasn't the engine timed by the rebuilder? Whoever fitted the heads should have timed it, or did you fit the heads? You have to be very careful or you will bend a valve. Normally when ready for installation, the piston is set at TDC the camshafts are then locked in the tdc position then the assembly is done, only removing the tools when the chains are connected. One other point is making sure the cams are fitted othe proper sides! !

One last question, is there a chance that the tops of the pistons hit the valves if I rotate the engine by hand.

Since I did not rebuild the engine I am not sure where # 6 piston (first piston from the front of the engine) is in its travel to TDC without turning the engine to find out.

I am afraid that I might damage the engine valves while turning it by hand.

Thanks for your assistance.

Marco

GREAT post Brian!! I copied it and put in my workshop manual.

Thank you very much for your great explanation. I've got the cam tool already so I'm set to go.

Marco

Thank you very much for your great explanation. I've got the cam tool already so I'm set to go.

Marco

Thank you very much for your great explanation. I've got the cam tool already so I'm set to go.

Marco

you need a tool that sets each cam to its TDC point. it has a radiused cut with a cutback to make a tang that aligns with a cut out area on the cam behind the chain sprockets. the tools costs $15 at xks.com and is their PN 17-0110.
1. first set the front piston at TDC. I usually use a dial indicator and look for the peak directly off the top of that piston.
2. Remove the safety wire and take the bolts out of the chain sprockets, and do not drop any.
3. Wiggle the small shafts that extend through the ears on the chain support assembly until you disengage the splined teeth on the plates the bolt heads you just removed were sitting on. do this for both sides.
3. Rotate each cam to where the aforementioned. tool is in the slot on each cam and the two ears on the tool rest on the cam cover flange on the upper and lower sides.
4. Adjust the upper timing chain tension by depressing the spring latch and rotating the teeth of the exposed wheel. there is an eccentric idler gear inside the chain support assembly. Make the upper chain tight enough to remove any slack, but not enough to make it tight at all. Release the button to lock in position.
5. check the cam and crankshaft TDC positions again, and adjust and repeat from step 3 if any discrepancies are found.
6. find an alignment on each of the plates with the teeth wiggled free before such that the teeth align and the four bolt holes are aligned.
7. reinstall bolts and torque to 60-80 in-lbf.
8. Safety wire bolt heads or use safety cable.

if you have rebuilt the engine, now would be a good time to static time the distributor.
Have fun, Brian Blackwell