E type half shafts

I've seen it done in-place. You need to remove the outer fulcrum shaft, and remove the half shaft and hub carrier as a unit. You may have to remove the lower shock bolts to make a little room. Once the half shaft/hub assembly is on the bench, installation of new u-joints is straight forward. The tricky part is re-installing the hub carrier bearings and seals on the fulcrum shaft. This is essentially the same thing you'd do if the entire rear was removed.

Richard,

I just yanked my '66 IRS last week. It's really not a big deal provided you have good floor jack. The centroid is about 1-1/2 in. forward of the line between the two half-shafts.

By the look of it, I would say that even if you manage to reach around the spring-shock units to wrestle out the inner flange bolts, there may not be enough clearance to withdraw the flange between the springs.

When was the last time the dif oil seals were replaced? You might want to consider doing those if you decide to yank the IRS.

Unfortunately, these are the headaches that come with owning and maintaining a 40 year old high-performance sports car. The deeper you go, the more stuff you find that either needs fixing or needs replacing while you are there. (This may also be the best time to remove the drive shaft and replace those u-joints as well)

I simply don't want to have to do something twice because I failed to address it when the opportunity was there....sort of like rebuilding the engine without also changing the clutch, or, replacing a master cylinders without also addressing the calipers. The older I get, the less fun all of this is.

I am currently trying to get through my last car restoration project, and no more after this one (famous last words)...but certainly, no more small British cars. (But owning an XKE is worth it I think).

P

Thanks all,
The book doesn't exactly say you must remove the rear end first but it describes the procedure with the unit already removed! I will have a closer look before I decide, One u joint is bad for sure and it seems such a lot of work if I must remove the entire rear. But as you note if I must do that, I might as well do everything! I am sure that a number of things need attention. (Probably everything!)
Dick

Richard as Patrick has said you can do the job that way--BUT it is so much easier to do it with the rear out and BTW you can inspect all the other goodies-If your U-joints need attention I bet that other parts do too!!!!!!!!!!

Well, I don't run an E-Type repair shop, so always take my advice with a grain of salt :-)
And, I've never changed out half-shafts with the IRS in place.
With that said, I would say give it a shot if you like. But if the book says you have to drop the IRS, then they are (or were) in a postion to know.

I know there is a hole in the inboard disk that allows you to get to the bolts or nuts. Getting to the outboard side may require you to drift out the main pin. Be SURE to keep up with the small shims, if any, on each side of the pin. You'll probably also need to remove the rear springs.

The only thing that usually bites us when doing something that is seemingly simple like this might be when we try to reassemble the parts. Perhaps it's easy to remove bolts on the inboard side, but re-installing them will turn out to be a b++++! There is a small procedure here that is eluding us!!

The downside to replacing these u-joints (only) is that you are missing the opportunity to remove the rear calipers and have them rebuilt. Dollar to a donut says the brake pistons are nearly all rusted up. And you'll never have a better opporunity than right now! Also note that it is impossible to replace the rear cover gasket on the differential without the cage being lowered...not that it needs replacing anyway. It's just an opportunity to do a tune-up on the whole IRS instead of just the half-shafts.

Dropping the IRS is not all that tough....but that's easy for me to say. Unfortunately, you have to remove the exhaust pipes, the emergency brake cable gizmo, the hydraulic flex line, the rear anti-sway bar connections, and the two trailing arm bushings. There are only 2 bolts per side holding up the IRS. I would use two good jacks...one on a piece of wood under the IRS, and another under the car on a 4x4 under the two main rails. Remove the wheels; lower the IRS and jack up on the rear body as needed.

Sure is easier to work on while it is out of the car. I hate being on my back unbolting stuff with dirt falling on my face. Air tools will really come in handy here.

But whatever works for you. Either way, it's not a particularlly hard nor easy task.
Your call, my man.

Good Luck.

P

Now, it has literally been decades since I did those, but, if I recall (and don't hold my foggy grey cells acountable), remove the axle stub nut, remove the wheel, block up the lower control arm/hub, unbolt the u-joint companion flange from the diff, remove the top arm from the hub/carrier, slide the axle shaft to the rear of the car, then remove.

But, maybe not unbolt the carrier/hub from the upper arm, but I think you had to do that to get enough room.

Patrick has probably done dozens, he'll know.

Dave