1970 E Type series II OTS

George
I just went to our local NAPA and got replacement hose for everything around there. I actually put a new rear wiring harness in the vehicle last year. i'm ordering all new assorted pads and associated fitments. It sure was ugly under there - no doubt the first time the tank has been removed.
Thanks again to all.
Jack

Great job, but seriously, REALLY look in the tank, the modern gas should have eaten the insides out. If you have tons of scaling replace it. The new tank is coated to combat against the gas and the press lip around the tank is smaller, I used a Welch tank and it slide right in after I removed my left index finger and sewed it back on after.
George is also right, our tanks with the extra lines must be checked for cracks.
Your trying to do this job once for the rest of your life.
Almost forgot, I replaced all my lines with fuel injector hoses, they don't collapse and last 10 times longer. Its overkill but I never want to go there again.
Shall we now talk about the HONDA electric fuel pump for 30 dollars that fits in the exact opening and doesn't tick.
GTJOEY1314

Uh--Jack--the reverse of out! But while it is out check your under tank pad and all drains and wiring--ya don't want to go back --do you? Check the lines to the vapor tank and make sure they are in good shape. When you move them after decades they tend to crack and the fumes will drive you out of the car!

Gentlemen that sucker is out !! Now to try and stop the bleeding from slashing both my wrists in frustration earlier today. Thanks all.
Now how do I get it back in ? ? ?
Jack

George - WOW! big thanks, as soon as I sober up i'll get back at it!

Jack you have to take the nuts off from the diff side of the car. There is a reinforcement plate and 4 nuts and 4 washers. Remove them--extract the bracket and slide away!

Thanks GTJOEY - now I've got to get a new blade for my sawzall ! The center bracket on mine does have 4 bolts going through the body, the downside is they are tack welded in place, I got the tank moved probably a foot to the right giving me enough room to get the trunk lip drain hose off. The hose was completely hard blocked by 40 plus years of trash. I did remove the complete trunk latch assembly but it still won't come over and out all the way. Happy hour may come early.
Jack

Now that's funny.....Hey its taken awhile but this group is starting to laugh again. Peter/George /GTJOEY and all the rest, with all that's going in todays world its good we can goof around like the old days. Dick M. is next, once he gets into it, this forum will be the 1980's all over again.
Put down the ISIS reports,you don't need i6 phones today by 2 pm.
Get in the jag and enjoy the ride. If it doesn't run, take something off and clean or fix it.
Other than sirrius radio to blank out the world, my garage and jag is a wonderful safe haven.
This forum helps too.
Enjoy.
GTJOEY1314

Joey, that is not a joke - you're just confusing gas tank removal with gear lube top-up.

Jacks getting nervous......Lets look at the real proper british way to fix this.
1. Take out the dash board.
2. why do all british manuals say take out the dash board?
3. Take out saw zall, cut out complete tank and reinstall.
THIS IS ALL A JOKE OF COURSE....
Enjoy
GTJOEY

The front center bracket isn't tack welded in place, it's held by four studs that go through the body and a reinforcing stiffener plate which must be re-fitted. I do not believe it is possible to remove the tank with this mount in situ, that's why unlike the other mounts it is made to be removed. If anyone does not removed the mount then they would need to do serious bending of boot board flanges to extract the tank but this is completely avoidable if you remove the mount.

Thanks to everyone who responded to my fuel tank removal situation. It's much appreciated,
Jack

Sounds like many of us have tackled the job. If you bend the lip of the tank you should be okay without removing the bracket. Jack hasn't been heard of lately, he must of got scared and shut off the computer.....lol all this for a hose.

George, you are correct. I think to answer the original question, it a pain in the ask.
But if you replace all the hoses and all, there will be no fumes or gas smell.
Good luck.
GTJOEY1314

Jack, If your more of a visual type (like me) the attach may be of some benefit. It is a Ser. 3 OTS though.

Tom

Joseph if you have a canister filter (charcoal) up front then you should have a vapor tank in the high LH rear fender--you have to really look and most folks do not know it is there. Clear indicator is there are 3 small hose fittings on the fuel tank itself at about 10-11 o'clock looking from the rear of the car--again you have to dig for them.

There seems to be 3 different set ups as emmissions came in to play. I have a 70 coupe, feb /70 and have a canister filter up front, my design was totally different from a later 71 end run and completely different than a pre 69.
Short answer, cut the rubber sleeve from the tank to the neck, remove the gauge wires, after all the mounts are out, slide over and up, you will need EVERY inch possible, you might even have to bend the lip a little.
Of course the drain sump must be removed as well before you even begin.
I just put a new tank with the coating for the new gas, no problems what so ever.
Good luck.
GTJOEY1314

Jack you must remove the sump for the tank as well as remove the filler neck hose. As yours is a 70 if it is stock you have three other hoses on the tank that run to a catch tank above the fuel tank in the upper fender area.