XJ6

Well thank you once again, John and Bob. I'm writing down everything you suggest so we can rule out a few things. Of course I thought I'd try again to see what would happen last night and it started on the second try. I gave it a little gas let it idle for about 5-8 minutes before pulling her back into the garage. I'm still not comfortable with her on the road but I'll try to at least start her up (hopefully)every two days instead of weeks to see if this problem persists. Thanks for helping a damsel in distress once again, gentlemen. Next time I'll be sure to start a new thread, John. lol

Angela. As well as what John has suggested I would recommend that you might want to suggest to your guys that they run a quick check on the engine grounding straps. Jaguars are renown to require good grounding and if they don't have it, they do have a tendancy to experience both starting and running problems.

BTW John. Not quite sure it is deserved but thank you for the complements you awarded me. Missed it when you posted it. With the gentlemans gentleman part, are you suggesting by any chance that I am a butler. :-)

Bob.
92 Ser III V-12 VDP #31 Canadian Edition
87 Ser III V-12 VDP
86 Ser III AJ6/Soveriegn

Hi Angela,
It took me a while to find this thread on the forum. You might try starting a new one.

The problems you describe are usually easy to fix, but hard to diagnose. When you say "never to turn over again.), do you mean that you turn the key and there is utter silence, or it cranks but wont run?

If nothing is happening, the fault lies in the starter circuit. If it's turning over (eg., making a rrr, rrr, rrr sound like it wants to start when you turn the key), then the starter/battery/relays are fine and the problem is either fuel or ignition.

If it starts and runs, but then quits and won't crank again, I'd suspect the ignition switch. You might try wiggling the switch while trying to start the car.

John Testrake
Jaguar Association of Greater St. Louis
74 XJ12L rhd, 85 XJ6

Well Happy New Year gang! Thought I'd check in with you guys to say hello and chew the fat over this latest problem I'm having. I just read the thread about the car that wouldn't start and I'm not sure if this is the right thread to post in but I feel I know you guys and would love to get your input.

Car started up in the garage, pulled it out to let it warm up, it ran for 2-3 minutes then it fell dead and the engine never turned over again. Had it towed to the dealer, they replaced the starter coil, battery and something else related to the starter (don't have the paperwork with me right now). So, drove it home, drove it work one day, no problem, let it sit for a week in the garage. Pulled it out last Friday and it started even stronger because of the new equipment but while warming up, it fell dead again, never to turn over again.

Called the dealer, they said they had fixed what they'd seen wrong and couldn't imagine what else it could be but I could have it towed back in to check. They also said they'd found excess gasoline in the engine. I think that should have raised a red flag somewhere along the line. The tow truck driver thought it might be something wrong with the fuel line and/or tank and recommended a place that only worked on Jags.

I am at a loss as to what to do so I thought I'd see if you guys had experiened (and fixed) this problem and could give me some guidance as to what to tell the folks who can't find the real problem or direct me to any other threads that address this problem. Thanks in advance for any input. Hope this finds everyone enjoying the new year.

Okay so we could market that under the same BB&D trade name as well. Perhaps as Bubbles for Better Driving, just so we can differentiate between the two products.

Bob.
92 Ser III V-12 VDP #31 Canadian Edition
87 Ser III V-12 VDP
86 Ser III AJ6/Soveriegn

Well Bob, I'm still looking for J.A.M.'s soapy windshield washer fluid too. Maybe we can get our R&D Department to develop one for us.

I did however find his bottle of alcohol though. Sure enough, it only protects your system to 31 degrees F. I asked a chemist friend of mine to confirm the calculation for me.

[laughing]

Darn it. I needed another $60K before having enough for that XK150S I've been saving up for ! If we coulda kept "this thing" under wraps for just another couple of weeks......

Oh well. Back to bootlegging, loan-sharking, and prostitution, I guess

:-)

Cheers

Doug Dwyer
Longview Washington USA
1995 XJR

Edited on 2007-09-12 17:11:39

Not me. As of yesterday I want some of that there windshield soap liquid that JAM has been talking about. (JAM I Hope you have a sense of humour)

Just think it has so many uses. If somebody tailgates you. You just have to have your washer jets set a little high, which most cars do anyway, you can squirt over the roof of the car and drown them in bubbles. For those small roadside repairs or changing tyres, instant hand cleaner. Taking the young kids someplace and want to keep them amused when you arrive. Take along a roll of plastic and you get two in one. With a few squirts of that there washer liquid they have an "instant slide" and they get cleaned all at the same time. Now I just have to find out where to get it.

Bob.

92 Ser III V-12 VDP #31 Canadian Edition
87 Ser III V-12 VDP
86 Ser III AJ6/Soveriegn

Bob and Doug,

The gig is up, J.A.M. has exposed us so we ought to just admit our ulterior motives regarding our windshield washer fluid.

Just as soon as I get more comfortable with and learn my way around this site.

Dealers do normally have oil in bulk tanks. In my opinion charging even a dime extra due to bottled oil takes an awful lot of gall. Talk about "how to win friends and influence people"....NOT.

Start a new thread on the leather question. You'll get lots of good "opinions" :-)

Cheers
Doug Dwyer
Longview Washington USA
1995 XJR

I'm finding these exchanges very interesting (and funny)and definitely informative. I will stick closely to the recommendations in my manual with some dealer input along with what you guys have to say. I'd love to see this same type of discussion on cleaning and preserving the leather seats. Or is there a thread where I can find out all I need to know on the subject? Any guidance/direction would be appreciated. Hope I'm not becoming a pain yet.

I did find it interesting though that the dealer charged me $20 extra ($90 total) because my car was so old that he had to used bottled oil. What was that about? Is there a special oil for newer cars that the dealers stock in bulk.

Doug,

When it's -20C or -30C and you're doing 100 kph, you probably don't want to use your windshield washer fluid to try and clean that dirty windshield if it's water and some alcohol. Even if it's not yet frozen solid in the reservoir or in the lines, it sure will be the moment it gets smeared all over your windshield and you'll be driving blind as the proberbial bat. At least in this country, using a proper rated fluid is indeed an absolute. As with the oil, the manufacturer doesn't matter but you better not try and substitute something else for it.

Kenneth L. Cantor
1992 Series III V12 VDP (No. 24 of 100)
ex 1987 Series III V12 VDP

J.A.M

C'mon now.... Sales pitches ? I really doubt that anyone here is in the "windshield washer solvent" business ! Let's not get too worked up here, guys :-)

You use plain water and it works for you, that's fine. Others use commercial products and have equally good luck (including me)and that's fine, too.

Now, as for "there are no absolutes", does that also apply to those who recommend ONLY Castrol 20/50 for ALL Jaguars ?? (Sorry. Couldn't resist)

Opinions are opinions, usually drawn from personal experience, and are usually best left as "This is what works for me" type remarks

Cheers

Doug Dwyer
Longview Washington USA
1995 XJR

JAM. Don't know about your water down there but up here the water tends to freeze at Zero C temperatures and below. I must add that for us with our water, two drops of alcohol added to a gallon of water would not accomplish much when the temperature starts to creep down around -10 C. Gets more fun when you start driving at upwards of 40 KPH and the water instantly turns to ice on your windshield.

I wonder if water having a tendency to freeze up here was why Jaguar offered a winter package on some of these cars that had the washer jets located right over the engine for heat. They also had the overflow tank for the hot engine coolant right up against the windshield washer reservoir. Do you think possibly they did that for the same reason.

I am also puzzled and amused by the thought, what sort of windshield wash do they sell down your way if you have soap in it. Bet that's fun driving along the highway in bad weather when everybody is using their washers and you are getting soapsuds blowing everywhere. Can you imagine?

I guess the bonus is that if you are taking the kids some place that requires a long boring ride for them. You can always keep them amused by giving them some of your windshield wash to play with, blowing soap bubbles out the car windows.

Bob.
92 Ser III V-12 VDP #31 Canadian Edition
87 Ser III V-12 VDP
86 Ser III AJ6/Soveriegn

well, "bad advice" is just a personal opinion, and arrogant at that if I may say so. What may be "bad advice" to someone may be "heaven sent" to another. There are no absolutes.

My experience has shown me that using plain water and ignoring those soapy washer fluids is the way to go. Talk about urban legends! But it's your car and you can put Lemonade in there if you so desire. I just read in another forum about someone's clogging of their windshield washer system, and the dry-soap stains on the paint from using those colored-water fluids. My point exactly. So I will keep using plain water in my cars and I doubt i'll ever need to replace the windshield washer reservoir because of using water! I've been using water for the past 15 years in all my cars, and I have had no clogging or staining on the hood paint in any.

Obviously some here have an interest in promoting and selling the stuff, while my interest is to protect my cars, ignoring such sales pitches.

Good luck.

Edited on 2007-09-11 13:30:38

Angela. We have apparently got you confused. Just use regular windshield wash in your car. You should however to be sure to purchase a mix that is suitable for the climate that you live in. JAM got the confusion going by suggesting that...

"Water is all you need. If you live in an area where you experience freezing conditions, then add a teaspoon or two of Alcohol to the water".

This is really bad advice, as you now know.

The use of proper windshield wash not only protects your system should it go below freezing but it also acts as a harmless to your paintwork detergent in helping clean dead flies and other road debris from your windshield. A lot of them also have an anti-smear additive in them that allows for smear clean glass.

Bob.
92 Ser III V-12 VDP #31 Canadian Edition
87 Ser III V-12 VDP
86 Ser III AJ6/Soveriegn

Forgive me guys, I'm still in shock behind the intracacies of this car. It takes a certain type of windshield wiper fluid, Bill? Can't just put anything in there? Oh boy, have I got a lot to learn in a hurry. Guess I'd better read the manaual again. Again, I'm so glad I found you guys before I mess something up. lol

William if you change your mind about dying them a colour to suit your needs give me a shout. I have just been told where there are a set of XJ6/Sovereign Doe skin leathers available.

Bob.
92 Ser III V-12 VDP #31 Canadian Edition.
87 Ser III V-12 VDP.
86 Ser III AJ6/Soveriegn.

JAM....

I've spent most of my life working with "Certified Technicians" and, to be honest, they are just as susceptable to urban legend, misinformation, and personal prejudices as the average guy on the street. They are not gods !

The one stating to always use Castrol 20/50 at all times, and "nothing else", is a prime example. For one thing 20/50 is simply NOT appropriate nor required for all conditions nor all Jaguar engines. Most techs would agree....and he may actually be doing a dis-service by recommending it that way. Secondly, who would you believe if the next certified Jaguar tech recommended Shell oil instead of Castrol, or Mobil ?

I've got 16 "certified techs" in our shop and its sometimes comical the way they disagree on certain matters!

Doug Dwyer
Longview Washington USA
1995 XJR

JAM, what "ignorant assertions" have either John Testrake or I made? How do you know that no one here is a "Technician" or how closely related any of us posting on this site are to the Jaguar service business? I know you don't know much of anything about me, that's for sure. I do have a few extra Series III windshield washer fluid reservoirs on hand that I'd be happy to sell you for a good price if you wind up ruining yours since you refuse to use the correct windshield washer fluid.

I also highly doubt you asked your "Jaguar Technician" about his recommendation for oil the 4.0 engines. The standard rule of practice among "Jaguar Technicians" is to use 20W50 in the old 4.2 liter engines like you have in your Series III however, ask just about any "Jaguar Technician" about what oil they recommend in the 4.0 liter engines (like Angela has in her 1991 XJ6) and they will tell you either, 5W30, 10W30 or 10W40 depending on oil pressure and/or mileage. I've never heard any "Jaguar Technician" recommend using 20W50 oil in the 4.0 liter six cylinder engines that Jaguar used in the XJ40s and the X300s.

Bob Higgs, again, IÔÇÖm looking for NEW gray and IÔÇÖm not interested in dyeing it another color. I've been looking for four years and none of the Jaguar dealerships around me have old stock on hand anymore. In this day and age, they rarely keep anything in stock even for the newer cars and most definitely not parts for 20+ year old cars. You seem to be extremely lucky finding good parts cars too because I have yet to find a rusty old Series III with a pristine interior or even an "average" interior for that matter. Thank you for your generous offer of assistance.

I guys, I'm back after having my oil/filter as well as my air filter changed at the dealer. Not sure if I noticed a big difference but I certainly felt better knowing these things were done.

Now, I've got to get the AC checked out. It starts out fine but after sitting in the hot sun, it never cools off properly again. I would appreciate any speculation on that one. I was going to have the pressure tested first.

I attended the Nation's Captial Club show on Sunday and was absolutely amazed at the love, time, and effort you guys put into restoring and maintaining your "babies." I overdosed on my favorite XKEs and was quite pleased with my purchase when I checked out the cars in my class. I got a little scared hearing about the rust problems though.

All in all, a very nice bunch of enthusiasts who were more than willing to share (just like you guys here) information. I'm so glad I joined this club and love hearing the differing opinions. My dream is to have one of your guys who really know and love the car check mine out one day like Bob Higgs did for that guy. Meanwhile, after driving a sports car, the ol' girl feels luxurious to me (as in she floats). Her seats look great compared to some at the show, as well. I will start working on preserving them soon. I'd love to hear about everybody's favorite leather products and any tips on how to. I think I made a good buy (fingers crossed)time will tell).

JAM on the subject of your favorite filters. My only experience with that type of filter was recently with a 1994 4.0 lt. XJS. The owner had bought the car to me to see if I could repair his ripped seats. I told him I had a long drive ahead of me to get the needed materials, would it be okay if I took his car.

When I got back I contacted him to tell him that his car did not run so well. He was a little surprised with my remarks as he had been quite happy with it. Being acutely aware that I was not a licensed mechanic of any sort, just an enthusiast, he still agreed to let me take a look at it for him.

The first thing I did was remove the after market filter set up he had and I replaced it with the proper original filter set up that took cold air through the centre part of the front upright. It instantly made a noticeable difference but the engine was still was not right. After installing the correct plugs, resetting the timing and removing some other spark enhancing useless equipment that he had been talked into having on the car by a Jaguar Mechanic, the car came to life. On his 60 mile drive home, he was absolutely thrilled with it.

Overall I don't know for sure how much the after market filter was taking away from the performance of this car but the difference I noticed during testing was enough to convince me that I would never install one on any of my cars.

For what it is worth this is just my opinion.

Bob.
92 Ser III V-12 VDP #31 Canadian Edition
87 Ser III V-12 VDP
86 Ser III AJ6/Soveriegn

William I must agree with you that Series III XJ6/Sovereign/1990/91 VDP seat skins are hard to find at a cheap price at the instance you want them. The ones I purchased were of the pre 1990 VDP version. Anyway I only mentioned what I did to illustrate that these deals do come along. To take full advantage of such offerings I would suggest that you do like it did, if you have plans to spiff up your Jaguar some time in the future. Make real good friends with the Jaguar and parts dealerships in your area and you will then stand a good chance of being one of the first to be told about the availability of such items you might need.

I remember a few years back a Toronto Jaguar dealership during one of their clean outs donating nearly a truckload of assorted goodies to the Local Jaguar club. Lots of leather seat covers in that shipment as well. OJOA held an internal auction with it all to raise funds for the club. A lot of it was left over and I am not sure what happened to it all.

So are you only after new or will you settle for a really good set. What colour do you want or are you willing to dye them to suit. I ask because we have a few guys up here that part out Jaguars and they always have lots of stuff in really good condition and at good prices.

Cars tend to rust badly up here when driven in our winters. Many times you will find cars with perfect interiors and good engines being scraped just because of body damage due to rampant rust problems. My parts car for one, that I purchased for $200, was absolutely pristine inside when I purchased it. In fact the carpets were donated straight into one of my Concours cars.

Just let my know if this is of interest to you and if you want some names.

Bob.
92 Ser III V-12 VDP #31 Canadian Edition
87 Ser III V-12 VDP
86 Ser III AJ6/Soveriegn

I differ about the K & N Air Filter being discarded here by those who haven't even tried one. Frankly, I am amazed at the ignorant assertations about the K & N products, not to mention the mis-information being handed to this new Jaguar owner as "fact"!

I would suggest to this lady that she ignore every comment or recommendation made here and talk to a Certified Jaguar Technician, since none of us here are Technicians. As for myself, I only have 17 years of experience messing with 2 Jaguars. I don't know about anybody else's "expertise", no matter how "nice" or "popular" they are. ..."that don't impress me"... What impresses me is when I ask people involved in the Servicing of Jaguar cars.

FYI, the "stock" Jaguar dealer-supplied Air filter is of the common paper-variety, total crap by any standard, overpriced and overrated, and that is not just my opinion, but the opinion of many Certified Jaguar Technicians, and the reason I spent the money for a K & N. The K & N cotton filters are proven in passenger and racing cars to improve engine performance, gas mileage, and service longevity. You try THAT with your "stock" paper filters.

As to Oil, my Jaguar Technician (30+ years experience rebuilding Jaguar engines), tells me to use Castrol 20W50 in the 4.2 and 4.0 Jaguar engines, and nothing else. When it comes to Oil, (the blood of an engine), I only believe Jaguar Technicians, perhaps you should do the same.

Good luck.

The most important part of the originator's statement is this:

"It now has rust in all the typical places and since it has orig. paint, surface rust is on the top."

Now "rust in all the typical places" sure sounds to me like around the windshield and the back window as a mimimum and probably the rear wheel arches, the floors and the spare tire well. "Surface rust is on the top" means this car cannot be fixed by wet sanding and buffing. This car needs to be completely stripped and repainted, no two ways about it.

Oh and Bob, if you can find me grey non-VDP seat skins for a Series III for $50.00 each, would you be so kind at to let me know? I can't find a whole set (front and rear) for less than $2,000.00 nor can anyone else I've talked to for the past four years either.

If you've become well acquainted with a particular type of car, as Bob has become with Ser III Jags, you can easily spot which candidates will come back to life with minimal money but lots of love and labor...which is a very satisfying thing. You can make a silk purse from a sow's ear, providing the ear is in workable condition to begin with :-)

Still, though, if your end goal is a Jag to really be proud of, cosmetic condition is your first consideration as mechanical freshening-up is usually much less expensive, assuming DIY labor---major drivetrain problems excepted, of course. The prices mentioned by Bill are correct. It is very possbile to spend $5000-$8000 on paint, wood, leather, etc.....quite possibly even more. Just finding a car that *doesn't* need paint is a major advantage, as Bob's remarks point out.

Anyhow, back to the original question......

If Terry likes the car that much and plans on keeping it I see no reason not to have it repainted, with the prior understanding that its being done out of love for the car....as it make no practical sense whatsoever, from a "value" standpoint. Unless you include emotional value, which would be understandable :-)

Cheers

Doug Dwyer
Longview Washington USA
1995 XJR

I hold a totally opposite opinion to that of William Jenkins with respect to Terry Beamer's original inquiry.

I have always got a great kick out of taking something old especially Jaguars and making them look new again. In addition, regarding series III parts. I have never had any difficulty finding the items I have needed to complete a job at very reasonable prices and this include all the mentioned chrome parts. For example. Last year I purchased a complete NOS front bumper assembly for $105 and a compete set of leather seat skins for $50 each, all from a Jaguar dealership that was clearing out his old stock.

I have to admit that just like a plastic surgeon who is careful to select suitable candidates on which to operate. I would never knowingly choose to start work on a rusting hulk. Putting aside the paint job for a moment. Torn and tired seats, badly worn carpets, sagging headliners, delaminating wood and scratched glass are all comparatively easy items to handle and if you can handle them yourself, reasonably cheap problems to be looked after.

It became necessary for me to handle all these items in the last car I worked on and my total cost came out to under $1,000 for the supplies I needed, not counting my labour hours of course. However once rust has started eating into the car it becomes a really expensive proposition to correct. If at all correctable.

I cannot comment on the cost of respraying a car. So far I have been extremely lucky and have never had to have a car resprayed. I have fixed all mine by carefully wet sanding and then buffing the exterior to bring the original paint back to life. I do have a friend who is an absolute whiz at touching up all kinds of paintwork for me. So that helps out a lot.

If the car is sound body wise and the mechanics are good and of course depending on your on personal skill level and how adventurous you are, I would go for it. However to have to put a series III in a restoration shop for a total refit. I would have to have serious second, third and forth thoughts before I did that.

Bob.

92 Ser III V-12 VDP #31 Canadian Edition
87 Ser III V-12 VDP
86 Ser III AJ6/Soveriegn

Angela,

I agree with John Testrake, I highly doubt you need a fuel filter and don't waste your time and money on one of those K&N aftermarket air filters.

As far as motor oil weight, I'd recommend 10W30 or 10W40. I use 10W40 in my 1996 XJ6 which has the same motor as your 1991. Some people will say use the 10W30 in the winter (because it's a little lighter) and 10W40 in the summer but I don't think it really makes that much difference. I tend to prefer heavier weigh (10W40) oils but that's just my personal preference.

With respect to Terry Beamer's original inquiry regarding spending money on a paint job for his Series III XJ6, in order to do a proper paint job on those cars, you must strip the paint down to the bare metal AND remove the windshield and back window in order to properly fix the rot around the windows problem that almost always happens with those cars. That type of paint job will run a minimum of $5000.00 to do it correctly. Just the material for the front and rear seats will run at least $2000.00 not counting the labor to install it. My guess is that Mr. Beamer will need to spend at least $500.00 on the headliner as well because I have yet to see a Series III that hasn't had the headliner falling down. How about the chrome, does any of that need to be redone? The NOS chrome for those cars is just about impossible to find these days. Unless the car is a "Calfornia" car or one from a warmer climate, the front floors will be rotting out too, if not now, in the very near future.

You can find a VERY NICE 1995-1997 VDP for less than $10,000.00 these days which have far superior drive trains than those Series IIIs. I would stay away from the 1998-2000 XJ8s unless the engine has been replaced under warranty by a dealer because they had lots of problems with the V8s when they first came out that they didn't fix until 2001.

Signed,

A guy who was very happy with his 1992 XJ6, loves his 1996 XJ6 VDP AND is getting ready to change the engine in his 1986 XJ6 and who already did the transmission in that car AFTER pouring more money into that car than it will ever be worth........

Bill Jenkins
Jaguar Club of Southern New England

Angela,
Bob's advise is spot on as usual. His cars are some of the finest in the world and he's a gentlemen's gentleman to boot.

Have your car checked out by someone who knows the cars well. You probably don't need a fuel filter replacement unles the ar is running poorly, and forget about a K&N aftermarket air filter. Keep your car equipped with stock Jaguar parts. Change the oil according to the factory schedule. The main line dealer may very well be your best option for service if you can't find a reputable independent shop in your area. You might look into joining a local Jaguar club or a local British Car club for advise on where to take it.

John Testrake
Jaguar Association of Greater St. Louis
74 XJ12L rhd, 86 XJ6

Well thank you for your valuable input, Bob. Sounds like you guys work on your cars yourselves. Unfortunately, I'm not comfortable doing anything more than cleaning and checking the oil and fluids right now. My question is, should I assume the dealer knows what type of oil is best for the car and my area (mid Atlantic) or should I buy and take a particular brand of oil for them to put in. I was also wondering what weight of oil is best. The chart in the manual gives me a very wide range based on ambient temps. I so want to do what's best with my limited knowledge of maintenance for this particular car. I do appreciate all the advice given so far. Thanks in advance for any and all future advice, guys. I'm having a ball reading up on all the forums and threads, wow! Who knew?

Here's some free generic advice:

if the car is running fine, then leave it alone. Save the Checkup bill.

1) change oil filter and oil inmediately, then again every 60-70 days if driven daily. Use the proper Grade oil and proper filter only.

2) no need to use those Blue (or Yellow) liquids in the Windshield Washer container, Water is all you need. If you live in an area where you experience freezing conditions, then add a teaspoon or two of Alcohol to the water.

3) if you do not know the history of the Fuel (gasoline) Filter, change it. If you don't know how, have someone qualified do it and put a sticker on the new one stating the date and mileage when it was replaced.

4) order and install a K & N Air Filter. Costs about the same as a full tank of gasoline, you will experience more power and a little better fuel mileage too, and you never have to change it again, ever. Check price at your local AutoZone.

Let us know how it goes, and remember that a 1991 XJ-40 is too young to overhaul !!

Angela. Don't let JAM get to you. I use the same terms "complete overhaul" when taking about a car I have just acquired, no matter how well it has supposedly been looked after or what the service records indicate to me.

Recently I spent 90 hours going through a car that came into my possession even though it had been advertised as being in "mint" condition. I have a list a page and a half long detailing the items I have either fixed or replaced on this car. To put that statement in context, I should tell you that I am a compulsive perfectionist and things have to be perfect before I can be happy with it, if ever.

A car can be babied and mistreated all at the same time. Most people look after the easily accessible items such as carpets windows and paintwork but forget all the important and hidden items such as treating the leather. Making sure there are no leaks anywhere that are allowing water to enter the car and accumulating in unseen areas such as under the mats. Cleaning out contaminated road grime from the wheel wells and under body scuttling. Keeping the radiator free of road debris and I have not touched on the mechanical side of things that go untouched or ignored by most people.

Do your "complete overhaul" now and then you can really start to enjoy your car with the knowledge that it will last you a long long time if you just remember keep the maintenance up.

Bob.
92 Ser III V-12 VDP #31 Canadian Edition
87 Ser III V-12 VDP
86 Ser III AJ6/Soveriegn

Well thanks for the welcome John. I look forward to learning all I can about the car and picking the expert brains I expect I'll find here.

I should have said a complete "checkup" for further peace of mind.

a "well kept and babied 1991" and it needs a "complete overhaul"? something doesn't jive...

Welcome to the Jaguar clubs Angela. Thanks for posting and giving us the opportunity to get to know you. I know you'll love the new jaguar.

John Testrake
Jaguar Association of Greater St. Louis
74 XJ12L rhd

Hi gang, newbie here. I just purchased a well-kept and babied 1991 VP w/85k from an 86-year-old gentleman who hated to let her go but said it was time. I was told to look you folks up for information, advice and input on how to care for an older Jag. I've enjoyed reading this, my first thread and feel, like some of you, that I'll keep this one for a while. I'm going to be interesed in a complete overhaul someday soon but for now, she's running and sounding great. Hope to post a picture as soon as I learn this site and how it works. This is my first day. I look forward to chatting and will probably have a million questions before it's over so thanks in advance, Angela

are they like these ?

Thanks for the compliment on the car, yours isn't hard to look at either . I should update the picture really as I too have now got the chrome centre caps. It just turned 81,000 kms this week and I look for excuses to take her out (smile) , any excuse will , I'm sure you understand .

Paul. My Cat came back !

Edited on 2007-05-29 22:52:53

Edited on 2007-05-29 22:49:35

the issue that Terry is dealing with his 1982 XJ-6 VP, is the 15 years that he has owned the car -it becomes part of the family and part of his past-, and I can relate exactly to that issue because I have owned my 1984 XJ-6 for 16 years.

In my case, I don't even think about selling my car because it's one of those "choice" cars in excellent condition, and more importantly, it has been a reliable and dependable car for 16 years. Get a newer Jaguar? nahhh, not me, I like my old XJ, when one of our newer cars breaks down, the XJ-6 is always ready to take over.

Money invested in a Jaguar is money well invested.
That's one nice XJ-40 Paul. here's a pic of mine. I use the same wheels but with the solid hubcap in chrome.

Terry,

It is always a tough call to decide when to throw-in the towel on a beloved existing car or invest more money and effort. You can probably find a '89 - '94 XJ6 (aka XJ40) with low miles for about the money you would spend on fixing your '82 (I bought my '94 with 65K for $4700 just a couple of months ago). If you prefer the Series III style it doesn't really matter how inexpensively you could buy an XJ40 though. You should look at what other cars are going for (in the style you prefer) knowing that it usually makes more financial sense to buy a finished car or original car than to restore one (unless you do all the work yourself and don't put a dollar value on your time). It will be a long time before the XJ6s are collectable (if they ever are) so you should spend the time and money because you love the car. Below is a link to the XJ6 listings at Hemmings for sample values. Good luck.

http://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/carsforsale/jaguar/xj6/

Jeff
1994 BRG XJ6

Hi, I would without a doubt put the money into your car , it's true you can get a nice later one for the same amount (probably) but it's a case of the car you know as opposed to the one you don't . I know my 92 has extremely low mileage and is in great shape body-wise , for sure I couldn't get one in this condition again and would willingly put money into it if it were necessary.
As far as the paint goes I know up here in Victoria Canada you would have to spend about $5000 possibly a bit more to have a first class job done, good luck whichever way you decide . My Cat came back !

hi,
(my opinion), yes, get the body repaired and repainted. These older Series III are going through their last period of "classic-or-not-indecision". In the next 10 years, a well-pampered Series III XJ-6 will be a very sellable and desirable car. I plan to keep mine. I have an older XJ-6 too (1984) that I've owned for years too, (16), fortunately it has no lower body rust, only at the (typical) corners of the front and rear windshields, over the original factory paint! A month ago I started masking the areas, I bought a drill-mounted, fine-wires wheel, which nicely cleaned the areas of rust, then I sanded, then I primed, then I sanded again, then primed again, and so on, day-by-day, week-by-week until I had it level with the rest. Then I went to the following website, they offer touch-up spray paint in cans or pens for Jaguar and they have great how-to guides:

http://www.paintscratch.com

I plan to eventually have my car re-painted - but $5,000 is overkill. Half or less will get you a decent paint job, but you need to shop around for the best price-to-quality job and negotiate. I prefer an independent body shop.
Also, I prefer to disassemble and mask everything myself and then put it back together myself, detailing the parts as I go; That way parts and hardware don't get lost or damaged, and I keep some control of the situation. Also if a body shop gets a car ready-to-be-worked-on, they invariably do a better repair and paint job. I do the rest. That results in a better price too.

And last: document the job with pictures or video. It adds value that you have owned the car for so long and that you took the trouble to document repairs.

$6,000 to $8,000 will put you in a 94-97 XJ6 with 60,000 miles or so if you look hard enough. These years are all but... bullet proof. So the ? is will $5,000 give you as much bang for the buck as the above. If you prefer the 80's body style I say go for it. If this is not of importance to you the newer XJ's (mid 90's and on) are wonderfully reliable auto's. Generally 60,000 mile cars need no body or interior work if they are 1-2 owner vehicles. Stay away from multiple owner cars. Generally they also look good but tend to have more issue's.

Edited on 2007-05-25 12:23:04

$6,000 to $8,000 will put you in a 94-97 XJ6 with 60,000 miles or so if you look hard enough. These years are all but... bullet proof. So the ? is will $5,000 give you as much bang for the buck as the above. If you prefer the 80's body style I say go for it. If this is not of importance to you the newer XJ's (mid 90's and on) are wonderfully reliable auto's. Generally 60,000 mile cars need no body or interior work if they are 1-2 owner vehicles. Stay away from multiple owner cars. Generally they also look good but tend to have more issue's.

Corey
96 XJ12's