A funny thing happened to me on the way to the Concours !!!

There I was Friday checking everything out on my S1.5 '67 XKE Roadster. Mechanicals -- Check; Electricals -- Check; Intrior -- Immaculate; Exterio -- Shiny as a new Penny. Saturday morning and I started her up and set out to the show. Arriving early I headed to the my assigned spot in the Driver Calss Row. I finished going over the eheep wells and wire wheels, checked for any last bit of dirt on the carpets and satisfied all was in order checked out the competition. After looking over the other cars in my class I was confident of a first or second. Finally judging time came and I sat inside ready to run the cat through the mechanical test. All was going fine... started up, wipers, headlights, side ,marker lights, reverse lights, turn signals, now for stop lights. "Step on the brake" came the word from the judge... I did.... he repeated "Step on the brake"... I sheepshly said I was... he said "NO LIGHTS". I said they worked yesterday... he laughed. I spent the allowed 15min checking fuses and bulbs to no avail. All was not lost I came in third.

So here is the question. I believe the problem is in the brake light switch in the hudrolic line. Shorting the wires operated the lights. A mete across the switch pins and depressing the brake pedal shows an open. Seems easy enough to replace just want to know when I take out the switch will brake fluid run all over the garage floor....????? Appreciate a consult..

Thanx,
Ray g

Cars owned:
1967 S1 Jaguar XKE Roadster
1977 MG Midget

Submitted by rjg01@comcast.net on Thu, 07/05/2007 - 15:45

Thanx guys.. I just replaced the brake light switch wit the NAPA part. Works well !! I am ready for the next show..

Ray g

Cars owned:
1967 S1 Jaguar XKE Roadster
1977 MG Midget

Submitted by wcjssj@comcast.net on Mon, 06/25/2007 - 02:32

In a 67 the brake lite switch is on the firewall on the line to the rear brakes. Not much fluid will come out; just some from behind the switch and a bit from the line to the master cylinder. You can put a pan on the floor and protect the firewall with a bib made from aluminum foil and blue masking tape. The trick is to avoid bleeding the rear brakes. I did this by using the brake switch as a bleeder. Have someone push on the brake pedal while you unscrew the switch a bit. Air and fluid will come out. The brake pedal must be held to the floor until you tighten the switch. The second or third try will give only fluid. Of course this is a bit messy and brake fluid is an insidious way to remove paint, altho it takes awhile. Have some paper towels in the engine compartment to dry hands and the tool to avoid getting fluid on the outside of the car. Pour some water over the firewall and towel it off. Wash your hands befire doing anything else.

Recently I learned two other tips that I will try the next time. Jag switches are reported to be poor quality and take too much pressure to make contact. VW dealers have a nice switch that fits and requires less pressure. Second, some people are putting a microswitch inside the car on a bracket, to be activated by the brake pedal. They run the wires to the microswitch and forget about the pressure switch. Many modern cars use this system.

Good luck -Curt 1967 E-type S1 FHC

Submitted by NC19-03320J on Sun, 06/24/2007 - 22:04

Ray, I assume that your brake light switch is on the left side of the picture frame, if that's the case you're home free! If you're in a hurry to get it fixed Nappa part number SL143 will screw right in. I put one of these switches in my 64 last year and as long as you don't lollygag you'll lose no fluid or need to bleed the brakes