Thank you guys for the answers with the wiring. The diagram is much clearer to understand than the one I have! Thanks Jeff
Curtis,
The numbers for the fuses will save me much time & a great help!

Richard Sabonis
1965 E-Type Roadster
#10018

Submitted by wcjssj@comcast.net on Wed, 03/21/2007 - 02:39

Edited on 2007-03-21 13:21:58

Edited on 2007-03-21 2:41:40

Richard--another thought I had later. Be sure that you have good grounds. Don't rely on the frame to return the current to the battery. If there aren't grounds in the harness, run your own black #12 wires back to the place where the battery is grounded to the body. Don't rely on bolt threads for contact, but remove the paint where you contact the body. Make sure each lamp, the fuel pump, etc has a ground wire. The starter needs a hefty ground that goes to the body equivalent to the hot wire that goes to the starter.

Also, if you are using your old lamp holders, they are made in two pieces. The lamp socket may not have good contact to the reflector where the ground wire is attached. Check this with a meter. Mine had about 5 ohms of resistance and I improved this to zero by using a center punch around where the two parts come together. You can buy parts to replace the hot wire contacts in these sockets at any auto parts store.

I recommend that you use a relay like the 40 amp NAPA 192D to switch your cooling fan. The Otter switch then just closes the relay. The relay can be attached with one of the Otter switch bolts. 1967 E-type S1 FHC