Manifold Plumbing

Joseph & Joel,

This is exactly the information I needed!

I cannot imagine why the Stromberg manifolds are so complex...oh well, doesn't really matter now! ;-)

Many thanks to both of you!!!!!!!!!!!!!

C. Bruce Jones
Hartwell, GA

Bruce; The picture you posted helps, I will use your terms to describe how I think it goes together.
1.'bypass to radiator??' connects by hose to 'plug this one??' on the water pump.
2.'to/through firewall to heater??' connects via hose to heater transfer pipe in firewall.
3.'from firewall heater return??' connects to heater return pipe in firewall via hose or hose and interposed pipe.
4. You will need to block off or plug the small diameter pipe from the radiator that was connected ' to bypass hose to radiator'.
Hope this helps.
Regards, Joel.

Edited on 2014-07-06 19:50:33
Bruce, sit back, all you need is the single pipe from the fire wall to the back of the water pump. 2 loops bolt to 2 bottom mainold bolts, then use heater hose at both ends to attach. ALL THAT CRAP from a series 2 gets thrown out, No need for water jackets and cooling lines around the secondary butterfly set up.
Does that make sense?, Its very easy. just study the picture, get a series one heater pipe or make one up, anything from the entire series 2 set up goes in the pail MINUS the thermostat housing.
Good luck, you just got better gas mileage, once you way on a scale the crap you took off, it was a very , very bad set up.....
P.S. you thermostat housing nipple goes to the top nipple on the water pump, just make a shorty rubber line.........easy stuff, just boly on the system first it will come together. good luck again
GTJOEY1314

Thanks for your replies...
Further to my post dated July, 5, 2014

First, I apologize for the length of this post but I need to elaborate. Today was a disappointing day in that I have failed to turn up sufficient information to solve my problem. I am installing a triple SU kit on my 1969 FHC. These carbs replace two Strombergs. The Strombergs mount on what is referred to as a secondary throttle housing which is attached to what must be the primary throttle housing which is attached to the engine. The plumbing varies considerably from the new SUÔÇÖs and I am trying to sort it out before I make a bad installation mistake.

I have done my best to draw the Stromberg set up and have tried to label all of the coolant ports (see images). My question is, do I have it right? Can anyone tell me? Corrections are welcome of course.

The new SUs are far simpler, however, I am not certain which coolant port is which(see images). Can anyone fill in the blanks for me on thismy ?? show the areas of which I am unsure. Once again, corrections are welcome.

C. Bruce Jones
Hartwell, GA

CBruce, I have swapped my 70 etype to triple su's close to 25 years ago.......
Once you remove the entire twin Stromberg set up, its pretty straight forward. You will need the series one linkage and the longer pivot shaft to the fire wall. Also use the series 2 water outlet to make things a lot easier to the radiator hook up. Once complete, I put on early polished covers and remember the vacuum retard distributor has to go as it becomes vacuum advance.I ran the one cooling pipe under the manifold and just lengthened the heater hoses to reach each end. Its really simple once you get started. Also the exhaust manifold cover with the cross over pipe will go....get a series 3 xj6 cover, it bolts right on and makes the motor look a lot cleaner, no need anymore for the cross over pipe........... and no hole in the series 3......neat trick. On a series 2 the bolt hole are still in place to go with a series one air cleaner and all. Another final touch.
Good luck if you need help, pm me and I will give you my cell,the car is in the garage and I drive it 3 days a week. YOU WILL NEVER REGRET THE SWITCH.....
GTJOEY1314

CBruce, I have swapped my 70 etype to triple su's close to 25 years ago.......
Once you remove the entire twin Stromberg set up, its pretty straight forward. You will need the series one linkage and the longer pivot shaft to the fire wall. Also use the series 2 water outlet to make things a lot easier to the radiator hook up. Once complete, I put on early polished covers and remember the vacuum retard distributor has to go as it becomes vacuum advance.I ran the one cooling pipe under the manifold and just lengthened the heater hoses to reach each end. Its really simple once you get started. Also the exhaust manifold cover with the cross over pipe will go....get a series 3 xj6 cover, it bolts right on and makes the motor look a lot cleaner, no need anymore for the cross over pipe........... and no hole in the series 3......neat trick. On a series 2 the bolt hole are still in place to go with a series one air cleaner and all. Another final touch.
Good luck if you need help, pm me and I will give you my cell,the car is in the garage and I drive it 3 days a week. YOU WILL NEVER REGRET THE SWITCH.....
GTJOEY1314

Bruce looks like there is a lengthy discussion about the SU conversion on the xke-lovers site that might give you some info. especially toward the bottom. Hope the link below works.

On a related topic anyone ever tried replacing the 2 Strombergs with 2 SU's ? I have always heard SU's are better and easier to live with but have no clue if this is anything to consider or if it is a silly impossible idea. I am not ready monetarily or effort-wise yet to switch my 68 to the 3 SU manifold set up but might consider 2 SU's if any benefit and relatively easy to install them on the existing manifold.

http://www.xke-lovers.com/faqs/carbfaq.htm

David Barnes
68 E-Type FHC