1971 XKE Series II
2R14220

Sorry about the "blank Posts", had some trouble with the computer. Anyway, I have three questions for the experts on the forum:

1. I found a leak in the rubber hose between the brake fluid resevoir for the rear brakes (forward resevoir) and the servo slave-cylinder unit. It was easy to find since the resevoir kept emptying and there was brake fluid all over my garage floor. I replaced the hose and proceeded to bleed the brakes. I must have bled a quart of fluid from the rear brakes but it still takes several pumps for the pedal to "firm-up" The first pump goes to the floor, by the third pump the pedal feels normal. I also noticed that when I bleed the front brakes, the fluid stream is much stronger than from the rears. I realize that I might have a bad master cylinder or servo unit slave-cylinder, but hod to I tell which one, if either may be bad?

2. I just installed new shocks in the front and shock/springs in the rear. When I measure from the level garage floor to the center of the wheel wells, the right rear of the car is about an inch higher than the left rear. I don' think this is normal... is there an adjustment for this or is something worn out?

3. What is the best thing to use to glue "KoolMat" to the floor of the interior?
Thanks!
Jeff Solomon

Submitted by cleavefamily@c… on Thu, 02/26/2004 - 09:54

Jeff,
It may well be the weight of the gas in the tank. Empty it, move the car forward or back several feet and remeasure. The brake fluid will end up in the vaccuum tank on the left side under the rear carb. There's a check valve at the top. Get a copy of Robert Bentley's, The Complete Official Jaguar "E", it's THE shop manual for these cars - even if you don't do the work yourself, you will understand how these systems work much better. New parts can be bad fresh out of the box - nobody does quality control like they used to.

Stew Cleave
JOCO Chief Judge
\'69 E-Type 2+2 and other LBC\'s

Submitted by jsolo61654@aol.com on Thu, 02/26/2004 - 08:04

Stew:
The left and rear shocks & springs are brand new & identical.
The difference in height, when measured from the floor to the center of the wheel arches is approximately 1". All other measurements from the floor to the various parts of the suspension are within 1/8" of each other. One thing I can think of is that the fuel tank is on the left side of the car. When the tank is full (as is mine) the fuel weighs about 100 Lbs. Maybe this could account for the difference in height.

As for the brakes; I replaced the master cylinder and the pedal is now firm. I was told that if the servo unit slave cylinder was leaking, the brake fluid would be sucked through the vacuum hose and burned by the engine - resulting in a significant and continuous loss of brake fluid. Since I'm not driving the car right now, I'll have to wait and see what happens...

Submitted by cleavefamily@c… on Wed, 02/25/2004 - 22:22

Jeff,
Without knowing how low, its hard to tell you anything. Measure the heights from a level surface to the top of the wheel well arches. If there's more than 1/4" I'd start to look for the cause - measure common L/R heights at the suspension - could be bad springs or shocks fresh out of the new box (you did get the old springs back didn't you - I had to ask)(try reversing the new L shocks & springs with the new R ones) and see if the problem shifts from left to right. My '69 2+2 had a bad left front torsion bar - it was more noticiable at the rear than the front. Wild shot - the rear bumper isn't level. Let's hope it's not a bent unibody. Good luck!
Stew Cleave
JOCO Chief Judge
\'69 E-Type 2+2 and other LBC\'s

Submitted by jmassucco@apiinc.net on Wed, 02/25/2004 - 20:24

Jeff:
I have a 69 Roadste and the left side sits lower on my vehicle as well. I recently just had the rear end basically rebuilt - new springs, shocks, bushings, brakes screws etc. as well as new Daytons and Pirelli's. The left sat lower before AND after I had all the work done. I cannot figure out why either. The left sits slightly lower as you look at the car from the rear.

Thanks,
Joseph Massucco
\'68 S 1 1/2 E-TYPE Roadster
\'95 XJS 6CYL 2+2

Submitted by jsolo61654@aol.com on Wed, 02/25/2004 - 19:57

Thanks for the info on the installation of the Koolmat...

I replaced the master cylinder & it appears that the brakes are working fine now.

I still can't figure out why the left rear of the car is sitting low. Any suggestions as to whom I might contact for information on this?

Jeff

Submitted by NE52-32043 on Mon, 02/23/2004 - 11:22

Jeff,

I'm going to defer on the brake and suspension questions. But I did put Koolmat into my Ser. III a couple of years ago. Great stuff. I used the 3M spray adhesive. I applied it to both the floor and the back of the Koolmat and it worked just fine. I did not glue down the floor mats, but did glue the carpet on the end of the footwell and on transmission tunnel to the Koolmat the same way. I put the Koolmat in with the woven fiberglass backing down, then put the carpet on top of that. Made a huge difference in the interior heat of the car. Make sure you get it on the fire wall and on the transmission tunnel. That's where most of the heat comes from. And be sure to buy some of the 3M solvent to clean up the glue that invariably gets on things it shouldn't.

Regards,

Steve Weinstein, JTC-NJ
'72 E-type 2+2
'70 XKE FHC