Hi,
I recently looked at a 1970 Etype conv. which has been stored for 5 yrs and runs fine. The car could stand a paint job although not too bad as is. Also, probably needs re chroming. The owner said that the master cyl. needs repair as the brakes do not work. The seats need to be recovered.The top is in good shape. All the guages on the dash work.I checked for rust and there does not seem to be any.

The owner said he would like to get $17,000. Is this reasonable or too much. He said he would classify it as between a 3 and 4.

Submitted by jsolo61654@aol.com on Thu, 01/22/2004 - 10:26

Pascal:
The car I bought was relatively rust free and supposedly "eveything worked", but here's an abbreviated list of the work I've had to perform so far (things I didn't anticipate):

1. Replace fuel tank sender (gauge always read full...)
2. Replace/repair; turn signal lights; license plate lights; reverse lights; interior light; door switches for map lights. Most connections, bulb sockets and lenses were either loose, improperly gasketed or corroded and only worked intermittantly - grounds were loose all throughout car.
3. Replace speedometer cable (bouncing needle)
4. Replace handbrake light switch and handbrake cable (stretched beyond adjustment).
5. Replace brake fluid level switches in reseviors (inoperative).
6. Replace entire heater box, heater core, motor and control valve (rotted and all a bitch to get out).
7. Replace all four fuse blocks - all fuses were loose and contact points deterioriated.
8. Remove and clean lenses on all dashboard gauges & replace all bulbs.
9. Restore gear box tunnel cover & replace missing insulation.
10. Re-wire almost everything in the car - the wiring was a mess and didn't even come close to conforming with the wiring diagram for the car.
11. Replace front and rear shocks and rear springs.
12. Replace windshield washer bottle and pump.
13. Replace missing carb. return springs.
14. Replace missing air cleaner element.
15. Completly disassemble and lubricate all moving parts in the frame for the conv. top (impossible to lower or raise).

As you can see, there were quite a few suprises. This list doesn't include the items that I was prepared for... that list is even more extensive. I'm not trying to create a Concours level show car, just a good solid "Driver" that I'm confident in driving and that looks relatively new. I now understand why a good Concours level restored car costs over 100k - it costs that much to get it there.

I'm now getting ready to replace the windshield. I didn't notice that the glass was "fogged" in lower left and right corners where it curves, and who would think that the streaks in the center of glass were irreparable scratches in the glass....

Still at it....

Submitted by stuross41@eart… on Wed, 01/21/2004 - 22:14

There are a few good books on Jags and E-Types that will be helpful to consult when inspecting a potential purchase. Classic MotorBooks has a "Buyer's Guide" for XKE's that shows and explains all of the potential trouble spots (with many photos) and gives a star-system rating guide. There is another book on "Original XKE" that also shows and explains all sorts of details and discusses "originality" and has lots of color photos. Either or both of these books would make an inspection of a car much easier. Of course, if you don't know about the mechanical aspects, you'be well advised to either have a very competent mechanic or owner who really knows E's along for the inspection or make sure the seller will allow you to have it inspected by one. I think that the average "shade tree mechanic" won't be skillful enough to catch all the potential trouble spots, especially on the 12 cyl cars. Too much "plumbing".
1974 XKE OTS
2000 S-Type V8

Submitted by pascal@jcna.com on Wed, 01/21/2004 - 21:50

Jeff, what kind of problems? would be intersting to know for others facing the same situation

Quentin, Mike is right. if you're serious about the car, get an E-type specialist to look at it. not a general mechanic.... someone who knows these cars inside out. if not a mechanic, at the very least an e-type owners who's worked on his car and knows what can be wrong...

stored for 5 years and runs? maybe... but not for long. expect to replace all hoses and belts, rebuild the carbs and fuel pump, clean the fuel tank. and the brakes which you already know about.

one way to look at it is to start from the value of a good clean driver... about 30/35k.. not a concours winner.... but a good nice driver with good paint and interior... deduct 4k for paint, 2k for chrome, 3k for the interior, 3 to 5k to get it back in good mechanical condition as explained above, depending on suprises... you're roughly at 17k IF there are no surprises... and that's a big IF. engine and gear box are usually very reliable, but if the clutch is gone... they have to come out.

then there is the R word.... RUST.... doesn't seem to be any is a big gamble. of course it's all repairable but expensive. At least the paint ins't a new hide the rust job, that's a plus. check the sills and rockers very carefully, they're the back bone of the car. also around the battery, firewall, etc... then finally the engine frame rails... any cracks or repaired welds and they have to be changed. the material used can not be welded... very important part of the car.

usually you are better off buying the best one you can find for your budget instead of tackling such a project. It might be a good deal if the price is right and there are no other suprises. only way to know is to have an e-type specialist check it out.

hope this helps, don't be discourgaed, we all went thru this and its' worth it. just be careful

Pascal Gademer
South Florida Jaguar Club
72 E-type 2+2
00 XKR Coupe
99 XJR

Submitted by jsolo61654@aol.com on Wed, 01/21/2004 - 21:13

I bought a '71 S2 that I had checked out by someone I thought I trusted. The car was was given a clean bill of health... unfortunately the person who checked it out really only checked for rust (fortunately there was very little, and not in critical areas). There are about a million other things that can go wrong - depending upon how intent you are on having EVERYTHING working properly and/or LOOKING proper, you can invest a fortune of money and an even greater fortune in time. Sometimes (most times) the cheapest initial price turns out to be the most expensive car. I'm enjoying my "good deal", and the enormous education I'm getting restoring it, but I've already invested over an additional 10k in parts etc. and I'm FAR from done.... It simply has to be a passion...

Buyer beware...
Good Luck!

Submitted by jsolo61654@aol.com on Wed, 01/21/2004 - 21:12

I bought a '71 S2 that I had checked out by someone I thought I trusted. The car was was given a clean bill of health... unfortunately the person who checked it out really only checked for rust (fortunately there was very little, and not in critical areas). There are about a million other things that can go wrong - depending upon how intent you are on having EVERYTHING working properly and/or LOOKING proper, you can invest a fortune of money and an even greater fortune in time. Sometimes (most times) the cheapest initial price turns out to be the most expensive car. I'm enjoying my "good deal", and the enormous education I'm getting restoring it, but I've already invested over an additional 10k in parts etc. and I'm FAR from done.... It simply has to be a passion...

Buyer beware...
Good Luck!

Submitted by mfrank@westnet.com on Sat, 01/17/2004 - 20:24

Let me say this as forcefully as possible. E-Types can be a joy or a nightmare. The only way to judge this one is to have someone who knows what to look for examine it in person. An interior kit can cost three grand. If the master cylinder is all that's bad, it's a cheap fix, but the brake system is complex...don't assume.