Strange Noise

Jeff, Try to find the Haynes E-Type 6 cylinder manual as it covers the S2 cars. U-joints can make a wide range of strange noises from clicking to sounding like a piece of metal is touching something that is rotating, and everything in between. If this is the case FIX IT NOW or you may find yourself on a flatbed for a trip home! If it is a u-joint take the shaft to a GOOD axle shop and, as they are a standard size, have BOTH replaced with good old American Spicer joints. Some of the 'off shore' joints that are now on the market , to put it mildly, are crap!
If you are getting a thumping noise under accelleration that sounds like it's under the consule the rear trans mount is gone which is easy to replace. Good luck!
Bob

1971 XKE Series II
2R14220

Stew:
Thanks for the ideas. I haven't had a chance to remove the center console yet to inspect the u-joint. But it occurred to me that the rattling noise could be from the access cover on the tunnel. If the cover wasn't properly secured it could be vibrating. The noise actually sounds like metal-to-metal vibration (hopefully). Having the center console off will also enable me to trouble-shoot the handbrake light switch (the light is always on - even when I remove the wires from the brake fluid container covers).

I have the service manual you mentioned - it's been very helpful but unfortunately a lot of information in the manual is not specific to the Series II 4.2. For example; the section on tuning the carbs refers only to models with three carbs. Is the procedure exactly the same for models with only two carbs? Also, the instructions on removing the door trim panel has photo's accompanying the text, but the pictures are not of my door - I have a recessed door handle, which obviously is removed differently from the unit in the photos. I'm also planning on replacing the windshield - the existing glass is fogged in the lower left and right corners where the glass curves. The instructions in the manual for replaceing the windshield do not appear to be exactly on target for my model car & I'm rather skeptical about undertaking this project without any experience (or better instructions)

I'll guess I'll just keep slogging along and asking lots of questions...

Jeff Solomon

Jeff,
A thought occurred to me. Perhaps a PO put the drive shaft back in out of phase and this is why the u-joint failed. You might want to take a picture of things as you found them so the driveline guys can tell you if things were in phase or not. Like a lot of things, I've forgotten how to tell, and I can't remember which book I learned it from.

Stew Cleave
JOCO Chief Judge
\'69 E-Type 2+2 and other LBC\'s

Jeff,
This sounds like a bad u-joint to me and you will need a good shop manual. You have to pry up the center console insert (the flat part directly around the ash tray)) - it is attached by spring clips so pull straight up. You may have to lossen/remove the radio console too. Once removed, you will see an access panel screwed to the tunnel. Remove the screws and panel and you will see the u-joint. The bad news is that you have to remove the whole rear end to get the u-joint out, but its not as bad as it seems - 6 bolts on each side (I think), the four bolts to the rear drive shaft, the brake hose and cable to the E-brake. I don't have space here to explain the procedure. Once the rear end is removed, its a good time to redo the rear brakes. Have the drive shaft computer balanced by a competent shop before refitting.
This site has good shop manuals for these cars on the Jauguar Shoppe Page. The manual will aslo explain how to remove the door panels. There is not much skill involved in these procedures except do have the u-joint replaced by the shop that balances the drive shaft and punch the u-joint flanges before removing so you don't get everything out of phase when refitting - else you will redo everything sooner than you'd like.
Good Luck!
Stew Cleave
JOCO Chief Judge
'69 E-Type 2+2 and other LBC's