I have a tire losing air, so I tried to remove the hub, wheel etc. I can not get the hub to move with the lead hammer and brass knock off tool I put over the hub to allow a striking surface. I was trying to go the correct direction.

Any suggestions? Bigger hammer? Penetrating oil? Heat? (I'm pretty chicken, not a "pretty chicken"). The wheel has not been off for about a year.

I was also told by the local wire wheel experts tha my wheels are bent, and could not be straightened because the nipples are rusted, frozen. This car is all original, so original wheels. It drives ok, I had them spin balanced on the car. No shake or shimmey (what's the difference)up to 85 mph. I'm told that new stainless steel spoke wheels would be even better. True? Is it worth it? 4 new wheels and new redlines would be a little more than $2000.

Charles Peterson
68 E-type, OTS,
Seattle

Submitted by mcload@ev1.net on Fri, 08/15/2003 - 20:16

Charles: Wire wheels from Dayton with stainless steel spokes AND nipples are your best bet.

Before you put them on the car, seal the spoke "buttons" on the inside of the rims with silicon adhesive. This will help to keep grease from your wheel hubs from coming out the nipples and onto your wheels.

Patrick McLoad
1966 E-Type, Right-hand Drive Roadster
#1E1445

Submitted by LazyMD@msn.com on Tue, 08/12/2003 - 10:21

A bigger hammer worked. Sorry gentlemen, I was too chicken to try without your "permission".

Interestingly, the hub started to turn, very slowly and then when I lifted the car to take the weight off of the wheel, it came fairly easily. I did not think the weight of the car would bind the hub. Is this true or was it just time for the hub to give up?
Charles Peterson
68 E-type, Seattle

Submitted by mfrank@westnet.com on Mon, 08/11/2003 - 22:16

As Pascal says, they can tighten up all by themselves. On more than one occasion, I've really had to wail into them with the heaviest instrument of destruction in the box. Just be careful not to hit the car!

Mike Frank

Submitted by pascal@jcna.com on Mon, 08/11/2003 - 09:15

knock offs tend to get tighter as you drive and may require some strong blows... you could try a bigger hammer. if it's only been a year there is no reason why they should be rusted solid.

the best wire wheels are Dayton tubeless. usually about $250 a piece from most places like Welsh, Classic Jaguar, etc... they don't leak, are stronger,... well worth it if you drive the car often and at highway speeds.

Pascal Gademer
South Florida Jaguar Club
72 E-type 2+2
00 XKR Coupe
99 XJR