How do you get the bolts off to remove 1969 XKE clutch slave cylinder? I can't get to one of the bolts.
Submitted by NW61-43367CJ on Fri, 04/11/2014 - 01:44
Submitted by bfahnest@gmail.com on Tue, 04/08/2014 - 10:21
removing clutch slave cylinder on 1969 XKE
shoot it with some Kroil Penetrating spray about 15 minutes prior to wrenching. It will make it a lot easier
Submitted by Bfastr@cox.net on Mon, 04/07/2014 - 18:09
removing clutch slave cylinder on 1969 XKE
I was able to get mine off with a small socket wrench. like Alan says, key thing is to get the front end up on solid jack stands before you go tugging and pulling on a wrench under there.
but there seemed to be enough room on mine, the bigger hassle is the hydraulic hose attachment. you may be better off cutting it and replacing the flex portion while you are under there. I was able to get to the top attachment from the top side but as I recall I had to remove a couple mounts for the hard line to the body.
it just takes a little patience to get it off. and even more going back on....
Bob F
Submitted by jhn_ratliff@ya… on Mon, 04/07/2014 - 17:54
removing clutch slave cylinder on 1969 XKE
On my 64E, I took the correct size socket, had it cut in half, then had a bolt head welded to cutoff end. I could slide the socket on the bolt and was able to use an end wrench on the bolt head welded to the cut off socket. So if your socket will fit on the bolt, without the ratchet, you should be able to do the same.
Submitted by alan.barc@veri… on Mon, 04/07/2014 - 15:49
removing clutch slave cylinder on 1969 XKE
Tom -
1. Get an inexpensive open wrench to fit
2. Bend the wrench to reach behind the slave cylinder for a secure fit
3. Make sure the car can't fall on you (maybe that's #2)
4. Pull like heck perhaps using a second closed end wrench as a cheater
5. Have plenty of patience as it will loosen just a little at time
6. Have BandAids available for repairs to knuckles
7. If you think this is fun, wait until you have to bleed the system later
8. Good luck
Tom I haven't done this for a few years but I recall that I removed the bottom stud with the usual two bolt trick. This enabled me to rotate the cylinder around the upper inaccessible stud which made access to it much easier. You will need to remove the pushrod and free up the hose at the bracket first. You don't get a lot of movement but enough to make the job easier.