While driving my '72 V-12 E-Type today, my engine quit. It seems to be ignition related as there was no sputtering or rough running. Happened twice in a 200 mile trip. Once at 45mph, second at 60 mph.

Started up instantly although with a mild backfire each time which, to me, indicates fuel is present so not a fuel pump issue(?).
No over-heating, oil pressure good, I wasn't quick enough to check anything else.
Good news is there are no growling sounds from the wheel bearings or rear end and it coasts real well.
Bad news is I don't know enough about the ignition system to know where to start. I have the books but not the technical know how.
Anyone have any ideas?

Submitted by NE23-54945 on Tue, 03/11/2014 - 21:17

David, yours is right before the series 2 and 3 . You have no steering lock unit. I went to a pre 2 for 2 reasons the series one 2+2 had a bracket for a/c set ups. The bracket fits perfect, the switch look all original with a nurl lock ring. A series 3 set up is a little better but the mechanism is the same, plastic and crude . Jay is on the right page, even though others work, but with the standard switch it can handle, MODERN ALTERNATORS, SURGES AND DIVIDES THE JUICE.
My key switch is ICE COLD as it should be on a 100 degree day and driving 5 hours. Touch the back of the original, you will be VERY surprised.
Anywho, its all to help fellow etype owners to enjoy the car some more.
GOOD LUCK
gtjoey1314
PS I had the car stall as well before I changed to the new set up, no fun when the column locks and it dies at the same time, bad feeling .

Submitted by DavidBarnes71@… on Tue, 03/11/2014 - 20:33

I sure do not know much about Series 3's or their ignition switch but my 68 Series 1.5 has the switch mounted on the steering column but does not have the locking feature for the steering. Several years ago I had the original Lucas switch fry in my car. The replacement I got was Lucas part number 34680. It was a lot beefier and seems much better quality than my original and It has the same 7 blade type wire hook up terminals. The bonus was that I was able to push in on the tab to release the key tumbler from the housing and install my original key in place of the one that came with 34680. If your goal is to get rid of the steering lock type switch it might be worth a look. 34680 has been working well in my car for about 10 years now.

David Barnes
68 E-Type FHC

Submitted by NE23-54945 on Tue, 03/11/2014 - 07:22

The STANDARD part number is US/14.
It is a complete unit with a new key.
On a series two like a series three, the whole poorly designed column lock unit must go.
In the case of a series two you take the big screw out of the bottom same as a three, pull out the unit to the right. You now LUCKLY have NO steering lock.
I used a series 1 1/2 key bracket from a 2+2 that bolts to the column.
The new unit fit in the same hole, you have 4 ISOLATED connections , ignition, battery, starter and accessory.
If we could ever post pictures on the sight , its very easy.
Also isolates ALL the current into the right post and no hot key all the time.....
Come see me at Import Carlisle when I put my 800 mile round trip in 2 days, it works and it looks stock.
P.S. NOW IF THE CSR DID STALL YOUR COLUMN WONT LOCK ON YOU AS WELL......
Good luck
GTJOEY1314

Submitted by MikeEck@optonl… on Sun, 03/09/2014 - 14:31

Hi Joey,

What model switch did you use? Does it directly replace the electrical switch on the back of the original mechanical key lock or does it have its own key? I agree with you about the plastic switch, once it starts heating up it's all over.

Submitted by MikeEck@optonl… on Sun, 03/09/2014 - 11:59

Hi Joey,

What model switch did you use? Does it directly replace the electrical switch on the back of the original mechanical key lock or does it have its own key? I agree with you about the plastic switch, once it starts heating up it's all over.

Submitted by NE23-54945 on Sun, 03/09/2014 - 09:22

A late series two has the basic same spring loaded switch, never understood ALL the current going through it.
I switched to a STANDARD switch from a parts store. Its a complete HEAVY DUTY unit and all the circuits are separated.
Never /ever had a problem since, its been 10 years and I drive 4,000 miles per year in my 70.
The original was a bad design with a current tab running in the back of the unit, the unit was plastic and things get ugly if and when it heats up, there was always current going through the entire switch ALL the time. Not a great idea, that the entire system ran through the back of a little switch.
Good luck, hope the new switch lasts longer....
GTJOEY1314

Submitted by cruple@adamsffi.com on Sat, 03/08/2014 - 06:52

Jay,
Mine was on I-37 south of San Antonio. Must be geographical thing. I've ordered the electronic switch components and hope it solves the problem. I drove it yesterday to SA and back with no issues but I don't like the idea that the problem is lurking there. With my luck it will happen just as an oil field truck is on my back bumper. I don't think he would notice the "bump" in the road as he rolled over me and my E.

Submitted by MikeEck@optonl… on Thu, 03/06/2014 - 19:03

The next time it dies, immediately turn the switch off and then on again and see if the engine restarts. Actually, that's exactly what you did except you waited until the car was stopped by the side of the road to do it. Since it easily and immediately started back up I would say the problem is in your switch. My car had about 35,000 miles on it when that happened.

Submitted by MikeEck@optonl… on Thu, 03/06/2014 - 18:42

The first place I'd look is the ignition switch. When it dies quickly flip the switch off and then on again and see if it doesn't start back up. Mine had that symptom a few times and then totally died when I was 400 miles from home. With the judicious use of clip leads I was able to drive it back home and replace the switch after I determined that it could not be repaired.