S2 Intake Manifold removal

Tony; Glad you got it apart.
On mine at least there were no bolts, just four studs in the top holes that fastened in to the inlet manifold and four studs that went through both the throttle housing and the inlet manifold. These bottom studs also hold the brackets for return springs for the carburators. These were 'nutted' on both ends and the top studs were screwed into the throttle housing and 'nutted' with the carb nut.
That is how mine was, correct or not. Sounds like you have the job in hand just keep at it and remember "Rome wasn't built in a day". Good luck, Joel.

Joel, after what seemed forever, I got the outside manifold detached from the inside one. It turns out they are held together with 4 long bolts starting from the block side of the inside manifold, through that manifold, and screwed into the outside manifold on the block side. It takes "magic hands" to get a small ratchet wrench up between the block and inside manifold and unscrew the nuts. This picture shows how they are connected (for those that have this 2-manifild configuration). Whew!

Tony, not to get into a big conversation about how or why or the proper way. It is not that difficult to just remove the nuts that are holding it to the head and remove it. Do not get caught up in to much detail or you will get totally spooked. Sometime to much information is just too much information. Oh you will love the Kroil . it is great stuff and will make your live much easier.

Bruce

Tony; You, like I was, may be a little confused using 'Bentley', as we have 70 and 71 cars with Z-S carbs. If you look on page 93 and use numbers 69, 70, and 71 you will see these are referred to as inlet manifolds. I don't know what the air balance pipe is as I don't have a separate one on my engine, for my use I called them 'primary manifold' (carbs attach to this) and secondary manifold (attaches to the head). A good book to use for our cars is Richard Liggett's Series II illustrated parts catalog. Available at the JCNA shoppe (B-J53RL), it shows almost everything about these cars and as I understand it Jaguar didn't publish one. I would be lost without it. What I call the primary manifold it calls the Inlet manifold and what I called the secondary manifold it called the 'throttle housing'.
To separate the two the top two studs that hold the carbs go through the inlet manifold into the throttle housing. The bottom two studs for each carb go through both the inlet manifold and the throttle housing and nut on the back of the throttle housing and in front for the carbs, Once you remove the top studs and the bottom studs the two pieces should separate with a few gentle taps with a hammer or 2x4. There is a gasket between. I may have confused you but there is little you can hurt if you go slowly and pay attention to what you are doing. After all it is just a car and an engine. Good luck. Joel.

Joel, I'm doing a "refurbishing" since the frame and body parts are original but unrusted (save for minor spots around the battery and bonnet hinge bracket). Where components are "weathered", I plan to restore them to original, if possible. And I'm taking lots of pictures. So thanks on that.
Re: removing the manifold assembly. I'm embarrassed to say I can't figure out how the primary and secondary housings (see picture) are connected. These 2 components are called the"Air Balance Pipe", and the "Water Pipe" in Bentley's head assembly picture on P. 93.
Unlike the SU 3-carb configuration, the Stromberg 175 one does not have 3 "manifolds" between the carbs and the Air balance pipe. They attach directly to the air pipe. The only way the air pipe seems to be connected to the water pipe is by having it ride along the 8 studs that connect the carbs to the air pipe (making the whole assembly dependent on the carbs being tightly set when they are installed). If that is true (that the air pipe is not bolted to the water pipe), removing the air pipe would seem to entail just tapping on it (using a 2 X 4) to force it away from the water pipe and down the studs.
Thanks for the help!

Tony; Take a lot of pictures and then take some more. Write down where things went, draw diagrams and make notes to yourself.
For the manifold remove the primary manifold, the one that the carbs attach to, this will make getting to the manifold, the one that attaches to the head, nuts easier but not easy. there are some other items that attach to the studs also and you will find it easier to make a note of it as you disassemble it.
If you are doing a 'complete' restoration remove those things that are in your way to make the rest easier. Just my opinion. Good luck. Joel.

Thanks Bruce. I ordered the Kroil oil. Glad you mentioned the oil. I have two nuts (screwhead bolts) that attach the aluminum plate to the body shell just below the battery, that will not loosen. I suspect that a screwdriver will strip the slot in the bolt. The area is so tight I can't use a cutoff tool in there. If it won't come loose, maybe I can drill the head off the screws from underneath. We'll see.

drain your cooling system, remove the hoses that run to the intake and attack the lower nuts with a long extension ratchet fro the end ones and with a box end wrench for the inside ones. If you want to make it easier spray the nuts with Kroil penetrating oil a few minutes befor starting the operation. Oh save those nuts they are expensive

Bruce