new e type owner

There, now I'm human. Thanks.

Ah, oh I see your reference to the log in name, Napa 1. That's my name on the Sunbeam Owner's forum, so just used it to for ease when I logged in. Name is John Prittie from Napa, California.

Sounds nice. I have a friend with an S2 who restored a Sunbeam. I'm still struggling to call a fellow human being Mr Nappa1 but there you go.

The rust sounds like it will be surface only, inside the sills and front & rear firewalls. These were unpainted and merely condensation in a dry climate will rust them, let alone UK and shipping conditions. Ditto inside the thin wall engine frames. If it's as good as you say it's probably nothing a good wax injection session can't fix. I'd do it after the repaint rather than before.

Sounds interesting, I would love to see pics of BOTH.

I've restored many British cars, most recently a 1962 Sunbeam Harrington Le Mans, from a rolling shell to showroom, and I must say, I have never come across a car of this age where I am struggling to find any sign of rust, but as you say, there is bound to be some somewhere. This is the classic little old lady who's husband died in the 70's, and so the car was kept warm and dry in the garage and driven occasionally in southern California. 28,000 miles. I know low mileage cars have their own issues, so that'll be my focus. She had it repainted when she felt the paint looked tired to white from the original regency red, to suit her taste, so it will return to regency red at some point.
This will be a driving restoration, because as you guys have pointed out, I want to enjoy the car while I'm working on it. (the Harrington took me 5 years, and I only fired it up last week for the first time - i'll attempt to post some pics of the finished product if anyone cares to see them).

In the mean time, I just like sitting and looking at her. Thanks for the encouragement.

I've restored many British cars, most recently a 1962 Sunbeam Harrington Le Mans, from a rolling shell to showroom, and I must say, I have never come across a car of this age where I am struggling to find any sign of rust, but as you say, there is bound to be some somewhere. This is the classic little old lady who's husband died in the 70's, and so the car was kept warm and dry in the garage and driven occasionally in southern California. 28,000 miles. I know low mileage cars have their own issues, so that'll be my focus. She had it repainted when she felt the paint looked tired to white from the original regency red, to suit her taste, so it will return to regency red at some point.
This will be a driving restoration, because as you guys have pointed out, I want to enjoy the car while I'm working on it. (the Harrington took me 5 years, and I only fired it up last week for the first time - i'll attempt to post some pics of the finished product if anyone cares to see them).

In the mean time, I just like sitting and looking at her. Thanks for the encouragement.

napa 1; Welcome, you are in for the ride of your life,ome way or the other.
Restoration is a huge undertaking but if you have done other cars before this is no different except somewhat more expensive and rust is a big big problem. Most sub frames will have some rust and I found pin holes in them in the brazed areas after washing them and blowing them out with air, I saw bubbles, bad deal. Take pictures as you take it apart, then take some more. Shot the same area from different angles as you will find something you want to see differently.
I have done a MG TC (10 yrs) and a MGB GT (8 yrs) in the past and so far I am into the 4th yr on my 70 2+2. It is at the reassemble stage now and I do most of the work. I am the one that has to be satisfied. As the saying goes, 'It is good enough for who it is for.'
Good Luck, Joel.

I think I agree with Peter and would be careful about taking one all the way apart unless it is a basket case or you want something more than a driver level car. I hear they can be quite tricky to get the bodies back together where everything closes and fits correctly. I bought my E in 2000 and have always approached it as a rolling restoration since it also was a decent original driver. I am glad I did since except for the first several months of getting things in shape I have never been unable to drive it for long.

To me the drive train all seems quite robust except the cooling system can be marginal in warmer climates. I would check over the rear end and suspension closely for bad bushings and links etc. Like Peter said body work and rust is the big thing on an E. Besides that maintenance- wise seems like most other 60's cars to me. I hear the frame rails around the engine need to be checked for rust and damage including where they mount to the fire wall....my general 2 cents on the topic

They are great running and driving cars. Every time I drive mine I can't believe is a 40+ year old car and can really understand why everyone went nuts over them in the 60's

David Barnes
68 FHC

Hi, welcome. What's your name and whereabouts are you? If you are going to drive it then obviously you need to check brakes, belts, cooling system leaks, steering, tires, electrics - the usual stuff for any car 40+ year-old car..

Beyond that, if you are going to tear it apart, be warned - you might be without your car for a few years - do you really want that? E-type restos have a habit of running away with people and being measured in years and house moves and children born/jobs changed etc. The subject is huge but with E-types it boils down to bodywork, bodywork, bodywork. If that is sound with only light rust inside (they ALL have rust inside the bog box sections) then everything else is manageable depending how far YOU want to take it. Others range from total bare paint dissassembly and rebuild with all new parts, through to mild rectification, reliability issues and scruffy driver status.

Pete