Lifting with a 2 post lift.

I have a two post asymmetrical lift and agree with the post by Peter Arger. Front arms should go under the rear connecting point of the lower control arm. Caution should be used to avoid the shroud that is in this area. The rear arms should be under the front connecting point of the rear trailing arms.

rear lift points. front under rear of lower control arm

Brian
Thanks, gave it a try yesterday. Put the front arms where the subframe meets firewall. ( really could only get 1/2 the bearing pad on sound structure) and put the back arms on the forward point of the rear trailing arm connection as you suggested. Everything went well and I fully lifted the car. Can't see why this would ever be a problem. One thing I may do is build some kind of jig that will span across the two front connections and extend outward a little past on both sides so I can get better bearing at those forward points. Could be my lift as I was at the full extent of the arm adjustments. Thanks again.

Don

I have a four post lift that I use to stack two cars? the two cars are a Series II E Type Coupe and and a Sprite with a roll bar. the garage ceiling is only 9 feet, and there is a garage door opener. I have to back the Sprite onto the lift, and getting it centered will take some practice. I raise it, and after ensuring the drip pans overlap, I drive the E Type under it. I have had it like this for over 7 years. I put tape on the post nearest the button for the pump at the point where the lift has to be at for the E type to clear. Without that, I would have crashed into it by now. The angled ramps to drive up to the ramp get kind of close for me, so I keep the bolts loose on the right one and remove it after I put the Sprite on the track and raise it. I can then drive the E Type a little to the right at the entry point, then center up as I pull the rest of the way in.

I bought it from Auto-Lifters in the Midwest, and am very happy with it. They usually have a special in a Hemmings mid winter issude where the shipping is free This is significant, as it is 400+ lbs of steel. Having a commercial address with a loading dock, or a forklift is a must. I brought it home in a 4 ton company box truck, and dismantled the kit in the truck in my driveway Then we used dollies to roll the pieces downhill into the garage. It took an hour or two to unload it that way in the dark.

Closely related,,,,, I have a 1970 OTS and a 1970 MGB. I want to get a four post lift that I can also use to store one on top of the other. Don't want to get too pricey but want to make sure I get something of quality. Any suggestions?

Thanks Brian, good info. I will try later today. Raising the car a little and testing the balance is a good idea for us backyard mechanics. I do it with all my cars.

If you are talking about a two post lift with two arms on each post, I have done mine many times on one by putting the front arm at the factory jacking point, and the rear arm on the forward connecting point for the rear wheel trailing arm. IF the pad on the lift arm is too big for the jacking point, use a square piece of 2X4 wood between the arm and car jacking point. The same on both sides, of course. It is a little nose heavy, but it works and gives more drivetrain access. Raise the wheels 4 inches off the floor and pounce on the bumpers to test it if you are apprehensive about it.
Alternately, the front arm can be placed at the point where the subframe attaches to the firewall. This is more error prone and why you were warned, but it is a wider base under the cg of the vehicle. It is error prone as there is a sheet metal cover or fairing under it. You cannot see the subframe, but you can feel it by starting at the wheel well aft inboard corner, and feeling for it around the edge of the cover moving aftward toward the firewall. Another piece of the aforementioned 2X4 may help, and keep you from marking it up down there. Good luck,